CHAPTER 12. CANADA and ALASKA

 Chapter 1.  TANZANIA (Kilimanjaro and Safari)

 1ST OVERSEAS TRIP EVER

Chaper 1.   TANZANIA, Kilimanjaro and Safari

KILIMANJARO

March 7th and 8th,  2006.  (Houston to Amsterdam to Kilimanjaro)

I left Houston, Texas on March 7th flying to Amsterdam.  My connecting flight was delayed 2 hours and I arrived at Kilimanjaro Airport at 10 pm. I went to baggage claims and realized that my large climbing bag was not there. It was still in Amsterdam. They said it would be brought to the hotel tomorrow. Good thing I came one day early. Unfortunately there was another problem, I had failed to notify my hotel transportation of the complication and they had left. Now its about 11:30 pm and there are very few people and no marked taxis at the airport and I am 30 miles from the hotel in Moshi. Not a great was to start my 1st overseas trip. 2 men agreed to take me for $50 in this unmarked car. While riding down this dark highway with 2 strange men,  I noticed the fuel gauge was almost on empty. I mentioned it and they did not respond. My heart rate increased and I began to have thoughts of being robbed or killed, no one knew where I was. Then all of a sudden we pulled off the road and stopped. My mind was racing. Then the driver honked the car horn and the lights of a gas station came on and we got gas for the remainder of the journey. I got to the hotel at 12:30 am. With 24 hours of traveling and an unusual "taxi" ride, I had never been so happy to climb into my bed. 

March 9, 2006

The hotel was beautiful but no air conditioning and electricity cuts off at 6am, so no fan after that. I got up the next day and met other climbers at lunch. People from Germany, Australia, New Zealand, the Netherland, England and every other country imaginable. Also talked with a group who had just been on Kilimanjaro. Some made it, some did not. I was told about 30% make it to summit. Some companies boast a 90% success ration but the guides say that never happens. You just don't know how altitude will affect you. Being in good shape is only one part of the equation.

Friday March 10, 2006

We drove to the Machame Gate {1800 meters} at 11am. We climbed 1200 meters and arrived at camp about 4:30 pm. We started out in the jungle. By the time we summit we will have climbed through 6 different ecosystems.

"Mountain climbing is extended periods of intense boredom, interrupted by occasional moments of sheer terror."

                                                                  Anonymous

(though technically this is not mountain climbing but a very difficult hike)

 Saturday March 11, 2006

The climb was very hard today. We got to camp at 4:30 pm. There were at least 50 spots on the trail where one false step and you would fall 500 feet. You finally get used to the height. The food is not the best. There always seems to be some mystery meat, enough rice for 12 people and some kind of soup which is tasteless. But the scenery is incredible. We have been walking for 2 days and still have not seen the top of the mountain. By the time we summit we will have walked over 30 miles.

 Sunday March 12, 2006

Today we climb from 3800 meters to 4500 meters and then back down to 3950 meters. Climb high, sleep low. Best way to acclimate. Did not sleep at all last night. The Lava Tower is 4600 meters high.

 Monday March 13, 2006

Still not eating or sleeping. Today we climb Barranco Wall, almost 1200 feet straight up. At one spot, the "kissing point", the ledge is only 8 inches wide and if you are not "kissing" the wall you might fall off. Camp will be at 4200 meters. A large group who paid more than $6000 each are at camp. They brought banquet tables, doctors and oxygen.

"Its not your aptitude, but your attitude that determines your altitude."

                                                                                        Thomas Alexander

Tuesday March 14, 2006

Slept great for the first night and ate well. Hopefully I have finally acclimated. Not sleeping and not eating are signs of altitude sickness. If you don't eat, the guides make you go back  down. Today the climb was only 700 feet in altitude to get to Barafu Camp. We are at 4600 meters. It is so cold outside and inside the tent is like an oven with the sun beating down at 3 pm. Tomorrow we climb 4000 feet to summit Kili.

Wednesday March 15th and 16th, 2006

I left the camp with the guide,Charlie, about midnight. There was a hail storm last night from about 10 pm until 11, thankfully it quit about 11:30. The wind was blowing about 20 to 30 mph but the guide said that was typical. We started at 4600 meters and have to make it to Uhuru Point which is 5895 meters. So we have about 4000 feet to climb in the freezing cold at night with 30 mph winds. About half the way up we ran into two young guys who said the altitude got to them and they did not summit. Not the most encouraging of news. Every few steps I would want to rest but Charlie would tell me to keep putting my feet in front of me. My eyes were hurting so bad due to the cold and wind. We had headlamps on due to the darkness but Charlie told me to put on my sunglasses to keep out the wind. So strange to be wearing sunglasses at night. But it helped. I realized that I was taking 2 breaths to every step. What was I thinking when I decided to climb Kilimanjaro. Whenever I thought about quitting, I thought of Gunther, the German who was making his 3rd climb. He was 80 years old and summited one day ahead of us tying the age record. Leaving at midnight accomplishes two purposes, the ground is still frozen and easier to climb and you arrive at the summit at daylight which is incredibly beautiful. Pole Pole, which is Swahili for slowly, slowly. That is the secret for climbing Kili. After about 5 hours we arrived at Stella Point. My guide said that many people stopped here and considered this their summit. He said it was another 60-70 minutes to Uhuru Point. I told him that I did not climb all this way to stop before the top. I saw my climbing friends , Rob and Caleb, who left without me because they thought I would slow them down, coming down the mountain. They were unhappy because they summited too early and it was too cold to wait for sunrise. I finally made it to the summit and arrived as the sun was coming up. I was the only one there at the time. Charlie took a few pictures and my batteries quit working due to the cold. Luckily I brought a cheap camera which worked fine for a few pictures. There is only 50% of the oxygen that you normally breath at that height and it was about -10 C , so your time at the top is limited. If I go back I will climb for more days and acclimate better so that I can stay on top longer. 9-10 day climbs allow you to sleep right below the crater, acclimatize and only have to climb about 1000 feet to summit. The glaciers at the top were spectacular and to be standing on the "Roof of Africa" at sunrise is an unbelievable feeling.

But now you have to get down. You have been climbing for 6 days and not you go down using muscles that you have not been using. Everyone goes up different routes but everyone goes down the same way. By now the sun is up and the ice on the ground is melting. You are slipping and sliding all the way down back to the camp. After several hours of walking you arrive at camp and they let you sleep for 1.5 hours. Then they pack up the camp, eat a quick lunch and you walk down for another 5 hours. We had walked up 4000 feet and down 11,000 feet in one day. We finally made it to the Mweka Hut and had a celebration beer or beers. We tipped our porters and guides who amazing carried all of our supplies up this mountain.

The next day we got our certifications from the Park Ranger stating we had actually summited and went back to the hotel. Tomorrow I go on Safari.

"It is not the mountain we conquer, but ourselves."

Sir Edmund Hillary

"Some people travel to look, while others come to see."

Sherpa to Sir Edmund Hillary

"He who climbs the highest mountains laughs at all tragedies, real or imaginary."

March 17, 2006

Time for much needed rest at the hotel . There was a long wait to get a massage today as hikers were looking for relief for their aching muscles. Beer was flowing during the night but I turned in early as my safari was leaving at 8 am. During the night I heard a commotion from my 2nd floor room and thought it was just people who had overindulged. I was very shicked in the morning to see water and mud throughout the hotel grounds. Seems a flash flood destroyed one of the hotel perimeter walls. Some on the 1st floor mentioned they woke up to water flooding their rooms.

SAFARI                    

March 18th - March 21st  (2006)

A  3 night/4 day safari to (3) National Parks was the reward to myself for making it to the summit of Kilimanjaro (5895 meters or 19,340 ft.). I had a private guide and private Landover at a cost of about $1000. The luxury lodges were a welcome respite from the difficult tent camping conditions on Kili and no air con at hotel in Moshi. Plus each lodge had all u can eat buffets. Gained back all the weight and more I lost on the Kili trek.

Saturday March 18, 2006

Today we drove 3 hrs to the Serengeti National Park. The Serengeti in Tanzania is one of those places that you see on tv and dream of seeing one day. The wildlife is unbelievable with its great diversity. I really did not expect to see camels there. I only thought they were in the desert.

On the way we saw 2 lions with a zebra kill  4 of the Big 5 {lion, water buffalo, elephant and the elusive leopard}. Only the rhino was missing. I also witnessed the wildebeest migration which is beyond belief. Over one million wildebeest travel year round in a large circle from the Serengeti to Ngorongoro Crater and then back to Kenya. On the way we saw 2 lions with a zebra kill. Today we saw 4 of the Big 5 {lion, water buffalo, elephant and the elusive leopard}. Only the rhino was missing. I also witnessed the wildebeest migration which is beyond belief. Over one million wildebeest travel year round in a large circle from the Serengeti to Ngorongoro Crater and then back to Kenya.

That afternoon, we finally found the elusive leopard. When we arrived at the site, 3 other vehicles were also there. The leopard was lying on a branch in the tree and we found out that the other vehicles had been waiting for 2 hrs for him to move. As soon as we parked, the leopard started to come down the tree and posed for us for about 20 minutes. The lodge was built up on high rocks and had a beautiful view of the Serengeti , especially at sunset.

 March 19, 2006.   (TANZANIA,  Lake Manyara)

Lake Manyara was not my favorite National Park but was my favorite lodge. The baboon seen was actually outside of my 2nd floor balcony. Which leads to my story. On checking in we were told to keep our balcony doors locked. The morning after check in I went out on my balcony to see the sights, closed my balcony door and went to breakfast. Someone in the hotel starting screaming and asking who was in room 223 because a baboon was in the room. My room of course. He was removed by hotel personnel. They come into the rooms looking for food I was told. 

March 20, 2006.   (TANZANIA,  Ngorongoro Crater)

The Ngorongoro Crater is the 10th most visited natural wonder in the world. It is the largest natural crater in the world with over 25,000 large animals living there year round. It is 15 kilometers in diameter with a 2000 foot crater rim all the way around. The lodges are perched on the crater rim and the Land Rovers drive down into the crater to view the wildlife.

 March 21, 2006.   (GOING HOME)

12 hr. flight from Kilimanjaro airport to Amsterdam and then a 3 hr. layover there. 10 more hours to Houston and all that was left was the 6 hr. drive back to Jonesville, Louisiana.

Climbing Kilimanjaro gave me the confidence to try things that I never considered trying. The Serengeti and Ngorongoro Crater showed me the beauty of Africa that I had only seen on television. These 2 things together gave me a burning desire to see the rest of the world that I will always have. 

"Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed in the things that you didn't do than by the ones you did."

                                                                Mark Twain

CHAPTER 2.   EUROPE (Inital Trip)

September 5,  2006

I flew into Amsterdam but immediately took the high speed Thalys train to Paris. I wanted to start my journey in Paris and end it in Amsterdam 2 months later.  I have my passport, credit cards, a 2 month eurail pass and only the clothes that will fit in my small, carryon backpack. I will buy clothes if necessary.  I have a general plan but nothing written in stone. This is only my second time to go overseas with Kilimanjaro, Tanzania in Africa in March 2006 being the first. 

September 6, 2006

After arriving in Paris, I checked into my room, showered and went out to explore Paris. A breakfast croissants at a local bakery and my FIRST EVER subway experience. This country boy from Louisiana was very apprehensive and a little scared of the unknown but quickly figured out how to get to the Arc de Triomphe and climbed to the top. Construction began in 1806 by Napolean to celebrate his armies victories. The Arc de Triomphe is also connected to the Champs-Elysees which is one of the main streets in Paris. Then to the Eiffel Tower which is probably the most recognized monument in the world. It was originally built as a temporary, decorative centerpiece for the 1889 Universal Exhibition but was saved from demolition and used as a radio tower because it was the tallest structure in Europe. Today, it is the very symbol of Paris.

" If one of us dies, ' the husband told his wife, ' I shall move to Paris. "

                                                                                                Sigmund Freud

September 6, 2006

After visiting the Arc de Triomphe and the Eiffel Tower, I walked down the Champs-Elysees to the Louvre.  Once the largest palace in the world and now the largest museum in the world, it is the home of the Mona Lisa and the Venus de Milo. It contains over 400,000 works of art, 35,000 of which are on permanent display. I spent several hours in the Louvre and then it was only a 15 minute walk along the Seine River to Notre Dame Cathedral.

Notre Dame Cathedral is the 3rd largest Gothic cathedral after Rome's St. Peter's and Canterbury Cathedreal and the first to use flying buttresses. It is known for its unrivaled stained-glass windows and sculptures. The beautiful stained glass windows were removed piece by piece during both world wars and put in a safe place. I paid the 7.50 euro to climb the 376 steps to the bell tower (No Quasimodo) for an amazing  view of Paris and up close view of  its famous gargoyles.  Later that evening I took the METRO back to the Eiffel Tower to see it lit up. The 1st 10 minutes every hour after 10 pm it blinks. Impressive. 

September 7, 2006

The Chateau De Versailles was home of one of the most flamboyant courts and opulent palaces since the fall of the Roman Empire. It was constructed mostly by Louis XIV between 1661 to his death in 1715. Its most memorable room is the 236 foot long Hall of Mirrors. The renovations of the 800 hectare Gardens began in 1661 and lasted over 40 years. After visiting Versailles I spent the day walking along the Seine River and had a glass of wine on a "barge restaurant". Later that evening I visited the Latin Quarter and listened to some great jazz. (Felt like I was in New Orleans) 

Friday, September 8, 2006

Last day in Paris. I strolled down the Seine River and visited Montmarte District where the Sacred Coeur Basilica is located. There are amazing views of Paris from the Basilica as it is the highest place in Paris. The Moulin Rouge is also located in Montmarte. I also visited the Picasso Museum but Monet is my favorite.  Late overnight train to Madrid to save hotel room expense. Saying that the recliner seat was uncomfortable would be an understatement.  Enjoyed Paris. Exciting beginning to this 2 month "whirlwind" adventure.

September 9th and 10th, 2006

I arrived early Sunday morning. Madrid was beautiful and is supposedly the cleanest city in Europe.  Not as exciting as I had hoped but the fact that it rained both days and I was there on a Sunday and Monday may have been contributing factors. The Mayor Plaza, where my hotel was located, was especially nice and there were sidewalk cafes everywhere. It rained too much to take many pictures. After checking out Monday, I still had 10 hours until my late overnight train to Barcelona. It was still raining so I spent most of the day on the hop on hop off bus to see the sights and stay dry.

September 11, 2006

When I arrived in Barcelona it was storming. Fortunately, I had packed a poncho. I found my hotel which was located near Las Ramblas, one of the most famous streets in Barcelona. It is a tree-lined pedestrian walkway that stretches 1.2 km connecting Placa de Catalunya with the Christopher Columbus Monument at the port.  Immediately I realized I had not planned enough time here. It is so beautiful and there is so much to do. Later I visited the Sagrada Familia.  Construction began on this enormous incomplete, roofless masterpiece by the eccentric genius Antonio Gaudi in 1882. He was run over by a tram in 1926 before he could complete his most controversial creation.  The construction is still ongoing. 

September 12, 2006

This morning I walked down Las Ramblas to the port. Street performers, sidewalk cafes, markets and flower and bird shops line this beautiful pedestrian street. At the very end of Las Ramblas is the iconic statue of Christopher Columbus next to the port. After watching the sailboats at the port, I continued walking to the beautiful beaches located in Barcelona. Later that evening I went to a sidewalk cafe for my 1st experience with Paella,  similar to Louisiana Jambalaya,  and ordered Sangria. As soon as I ordered it began to storm. I ran inside to eat and drink and 5 hours later the torrential downpour stopped. It was now 12:30 am but as luck would have it, the Tapas Bars were in full swing. Spain eats and parties late.

September 13th. 

More rain. Used the hop on, hop off bus to see the sights but not picture worthy due to weather. Train to Cannes, France leaves at 4:32 pm.

September 14, 2006

Only spending a few hours in Cannes. Walked to the harbour and saw where they have the Cannes Film Festival. Then back on the train to Nice. In Nice I took the hop on hop off bus to see the sights. Then to my room for much needed rest and KFC for dinner. (Yum)

The 1st two pictures are of Cannes, home of the world famous Cannes Film Festival. The rest of the pictures were taken in Nice.

September 15, 2006

Took the train to Monte Carlo, Monaco to spend a few hours in the home of the "Rich and Famous". lol  THE YACHTS go on forever. OMG.  The town looks like a perfect Italian village on a mountain by the sea. Except new and very expensive. 

I spent a few hours in the Monte Carlo looking at the beauty and wealth which the principality of Monaco, which is smaller than London's Hyde Park, and is famous for its yachts and Rolls-Royces. I love the picture of the Rolls-Royce sitting next to a Smart car in front of the Grand Casino. I guess you arrive in one and leave in the other. lol Before catching the late train to Venice, I did visit the Grand Casino and won about 75 euros. 

September 16, 2006

I just arrived in Venice after spending the night traveling on the train in a sleeper car from Monaco. Venice was beautiful but after 4-5 hours you pretty much have seen almost everything. I was supposed to stay 2 nights but only stayed one. It is very expensive and truly can be seen in 1 day if short on travel time. Many backpackers arrive early in morning, check their backpack at train station, and spend the day in Venice. Then back on the train to another place. The streets are narrow, not straight and change names every 50 feet. Everyone is lost. The Piazza San Marco {St. Mark's Square} is impressive as is St. Mark's Basilica. Watch out for the pigeons. lol

September 17, 2006

I took the train from Venice 10 hours earlier than anticipated to Munich for Oktoberfest. I had tried to stop off and visit Neuschwenstein Castle but missed the stop. Room in Munich was not ready so got back on train and rode to Stuttgart to sleep on the train, then turned around and came back to Munich to check in. I stayed at the Jaegermeister Hostel which was only a few blocks from the Olde Town Center and the Fairgrounds where the beer gardens were located. The Glockenspiel Clock is one of the highlights of Olde Town . After World War II, most of Munich was destroyed. The people were given the choice of rebuilding as it was or rebuilding in a newer style. They chose as it was before.

September 18, 2006

Today I visited Neuschwanstein Castle outside of Furren, Germany, which was the prototype used by Walt Disney for Sleeping Beauty and the Magic Kingdom. This was one of three castles built by Mad King Ludwig and was built on an isolated rock ledge amid heart-stopping scenery. The Hohenschwangau is nearby and where Ludwig lived while overseeing the work of Neuschwanstein.

 September 19, 2006

Oktoberfest in Munich was quite an experience. The festival always starts in September which is kind of strange being that it is Oktoberfest. The Bavarian breweries brew beer for 4 months just to have enough beer for the 12 day festival. Numerous beer tents are set up by breweries that hold about 6,000 people indoors.

September 20, 2006

My day trip to Salzburg,  Austria was just as expected. It was a beautiful old town set in the mountains with that "Sound of Music" vibe. I walked up to the Castle overlooking Salzburg. A puppet museum was located inside the castle. Salzburg. Also visited the "Horse Fountain " and then caught by the train back to Munich. Late night overnight train to Florence, Italy at 23:40 pm.

 September 21, 2006

My overnight train arrived in Florence at 9:30 am. My hotel was only 1 block from the train station which is very convenient and close to tourist attractions. After checking in, I went to the Academia and waited for 2 hours in line. 

The Statute of David picture was taken in the Academia. You are not allowed to take pictures but I carefully snapped a few pictures without being noticed. The other statutes were in various piazzas. Afterwards I went to the Uffizi Gallery to see the "Old Masters" paintings which is not my thing. Another 1.5 hours in line for the ticket. At night I visited the various Piazzas and watched various street artists perform and do my favorite thing, PEOPLE WATCH. 

The Il Duomo {The Cathedral of Santa Maria Del Fiori} boasts an enormous octagonal dome which was the largest in the world when built. The bronze doors at the baptistry in the piazza are called the Doors of Paradise. Eating gelato was my favorite thing to do in Italy. It is said that you are never more than 20 feet from a shop selling gelato at any time in Italy.

September 22, 2006

This morning I did a hop on hop off bus tour but wasn't a great idea. Florence is very walkable and best way to see most sights. That evening I went to Piazzale de Michelangelo which overlooks Florence and has amazing views at sunset. My favorite thing so far on this trip. Florence looked magical as we sat on the steps sipping wine, eating pizza and watching the sunset. 

Florence was my favorite city in all of Europe. My favorite thing was sitting in the piazzas, grabbing a bite to eat, having a glass of wine and watching the people go through their every day lives. I especially love the Piazzale de Michelangelo which overlooks Florence from a high hill. Many tour buses go there especially at sunset. There is also a copy of the Statute of David there. It is just a very beautiful city and the piazzas are washed with soap from street machines every night. There is also great music and street performers in the piazzas and in front of the Uffizi at night.

 Saturday , September 23, 2006

I left Florence early this morning to go to Cinque Terre. On the way I stopped in the town of Pisa to take pictures of the Leaning Tower of Pisa. The Tower was my only reason to visit here so my entire trip lasted one hour. 20 minutes to the tower, 20 minutes at the tower, and 20 minutes back to the train station. Then to Riomaggiore,  one of the 5 villages that are called Cinque Terre. 

In my RICK STEVES guidebook he mentioned Cinque Terre and that he was reluctant to mention this jewel on the Mediterranean which was mostly unknown in 2006. Upon arrival I fell in love with these colorful villages. Trains run to all the villages which are only minutes apart. There is also hiking between the villages.

Today I began hiking the trails between the villages. A lot of up and down on the cliffs along the Mediterranean. The views made it all worthwhile. Unfortunately I did not spend enough time in the other 4 villages.

September 25, 2006

Visited Vernazza and enjoyed the coast. Last day here, this trip. Living "la dolce vita", the sweet life.

September 26th and 27th,  2006

I caught the train from Riomaggiore to Siena and then caught a bus to San Gimignano for the 2 day walk through Tuscany. San Gimignanno has 14 medieval towers dating back to the 12th century. At one time there were 70 towers. No one seemed to know about a walking route so the next morning,  I started walking along the highway on my way through the beautiful Tuscan landscape. Beautiful rolling hills, grape vines and olive trees decorate the countryside. I finished the 19 kilometer walk in one day rather than two.

September 28th and 29th, 2006

After walking through Tuscany I headed back to Siena. Siena is a university town and there were beautiful women everywhere. Lots of expensive shops in the best preserved medieval city in Italy. The Piazza di Campo is shaped like a bowl. In the best it was the meeting place for the city and today it is still a great place to meet friends, get a bite to eat or just bask in the sun. I climbed the gate tower to get a good view of the city including the duomo. Nice statue of Romulus and Remus. Will spend 30th in Florence and then continue to Rome.

Sunday October 1, 2006

I left Florence this morning and arrived in Rome at 11am. I went to the Colisseum, Roman Forum, Pantheon and Trevi Fountain. The Pantheon had closed by the time I got there. The Colisseum is magnificent from the outside and a little disappointing on the inside. Not sure if I expected to see gladiators battling or lions eating Christians, but I did not expect it to be in such disrepair. Oh well, when in Rome. There was renovation going on when I was there so hopefully one day it will more closely resemble its former glory inside. 

October 3, 2006

The Trevi Fountain surprised me the most. The Fountain always seemed larger in life in movies, television and in pictures. I was surprised by its size and the size of the piazza. Much smaller than I imagined.. The Fountain depicts Neptune standing on a chariot drawn by winged horses. It was completed in 1762 and was actually never a big tourist attraction until the movie, "Three Coins in a Fountain". Throwing a coin over your shoulder into the fountain is supposed to ensure your return to Rome. My first attempt hit someone in the head, so I moved closer and had better success.

October 2, 2006

I went to the Vatican City, the world's smallest independent state. It is accessed through St. Peter's Square, surrounded by an elliptical colonade with some 140 saints on top. Straight ahead is St. Peter's Basilica, the center of world Catholicism. The Swiss Guard protect the Vatican.

After St. Peter's Basilica I visited the Vatican Museum and Sistine Chapel.  The ceiling in the Sistine Chapel was painted by Michelangelo between 1508 and 1512. You are not allowed to take pictures inside the Sistine Chapel. I did manage to get a couple of shots, including Adam and Eve being cast out of the Garden of Eden, before they threatened to confiscate my camera.

The Spanish Steps is the place to be at sunset with a great view of Rome's 7 hills. It is located in the Piazza di Spagna.

Tuesday October 3, 2006

I went to the Piazza Novona which was being repaired and went back to the Pantheon to see the inside. Raphael's tomb is inside. The Pantheon is the most complete ancient Roman building remaining today and is an architectural wonder. Its dome is exactly as wide as it is high, supported by pillars hidden in the walls. It is located in the Piazza dell Rotunda. Also pictured is a fountain in the middle of the piazza. Almost had my wallet stolen by a pickpocket on the city bus. Thankfully a woman brought it to my attention as she chastised the couple next to me trying to get my wallet. Now I use a moneybelt when traveling. Another great day and spaghetti again for dinner.

NOTE: In Italy the house wine is really inexpensive and tastes great. It's  called house wine because that is the wine they would serve to family and friends ....at their house.

Friday October 4-7th, 2006

I caught the train from Rome to Naples and then tge local train (Circumventa) to Sorrento. My guidebook said that Naples was the pickpocket capital of the world. But after my Rome encounter I believed I was prepared.  I wasn't.  After getting on the crowded Circumvent I felt a bump. I immediately looked and my front pocket was unbuttoned , my wallet gone and the pickpocket stepping out of the train. 3 seconds was all it took.. Fortunately I only had 20 euros in it. I keep my cash, credit cards and passport in a moneybelt

Sorrento was very touristy but beautiful. It is famous for its lemons and lemoncello, a lemon flavored liqueur.

I was based to Sorrento but did several day trips. I caught the boat from Sorrento to Positano to see the sights. Positano is the most beautiful of the towns on the Amalfi Coast. Supposedly the bus ride along the coast is one of the great experiences here but I did not have the opportunity to see for myself. I also went to Ravello.

October 7th, 8th and 9th, 2006.

Train to Bari, Italy where I spent the night. Then overnight ferry to Patras, Greece. Left the ferry and caught the train to Athens. I am only spending enough time to see the Acropolis and the Parthenon and then catching the overnight ferry to Ios. I met an interesting man who is about 80 on the train and we still correspond by mail every few months.

Tuesday, October 10, 2006

Another long ferry ride {8.5 hrs} but I finally arrived at Ios at 6 am.  Very uncomfortable ferry trip as I did not get a room, just floor space. I finally found my hostel about 8 am but had to wait for someone to open. Most people have left the island because the season is mostly over, but I was fortunate because it was just me and 8 girls from Australia at Francesco's hostel. That alone made the ferry ride worth it. After lunch I walked the 15 minutes to the beach.  It was a beautiful sunny day but the water was chilly. Late night with my new Australian friends.

October 11, 2006

I walked to the beach again today but it was very cloudy and windy. I  decided to go back to the hotel . As I began walking back I saw a local bus coming and waived it down. I climbed on the bus and immediately all the school children started laughing.  Oops. The bus driver dropped me off in the village.

October 12-15th,  2006

I spent 3 days just enjoying the beauty that is Santorini. On Friday I took the bus to Oia which supposedly has the most beautiful sunset in the world. Over 200 people waited with cameras but unfortunately it was too cloudy. Santorini is all about money with jewelry stores and expensive restaurants lining the caldera overlooking the Mediterranean. One interesting fact is that the grape vineyards here do not put their grapes on poles but instead place the vines in a circle on the volcanic soil to help with the moisture. Lots of cruise ships arriving daily.

Sunday October 15, 2006

Checked out of the hotel. I am going to Crete at 10 pm on the ferry. I am going to spend the day at Perissa beach. The beach has beautiful black volcanic sand. The water was cold but the sun was warm. 

October 15th and 16th , 2006

Left Santorini on  ferry at 10 pm and  arrived in Heraklion on the boat at 12:30 am and finally found a hostel. I only got 4 hrs sleep and had to catch the 5:30 am bus to Chania which was 2.5 hrs away. I got there just in time to catch the 8 am bus to Samaria Gorge, which was the only reason I came to Crete. It is the longest ravine in Europe and starts off with a 3000 ft. drop during the first mile and another 11 miles after that. The hike takes about 5-6 hrs and eventually leads to a seaside town. Walking downhill on rocks is very painful and it reminded me of Kilimanjaro. Unfortunately, the pain was not completely over by the time we reached the beach town. The bus was full and I had to stand another 1.5 hrs. I am ready to leave Crete. The walk was a great trek but I am looking forward to Switzerland.

Wednesday October 18, 2006

After flying into Milan from Crete the night before, I caught the 6:25 am train to Interlaken. I had left my camera back in my hotel room and had to go back and get it. I got to the train 2 minutes before it pulled out. The train ride to Switzerland was incredible. I got to Interlaken at 9 am and found out that the next train to the Jungfrau Mountain, which I wanted to visit, left in 3 minutes so I bought a ticket. The weather has been warm since I have been in Europe and I did not bring a coat. It would have been nice to have had one when I went to the Jungfrau and the Ice Palace, which is located inside the mountain. At 11,400 feet Jungfrau has been the highest railroad terminus for over a century and the Aletsch Glacier is Europe's longest.

Thursday October 19, 2006

Today I went with 4 other people up on the side of a mountain about 2800 feet up and ran off the side of a mountain along with my pilot, Julian, in a tandem jump. Julian said his 1st jump was only 18 months earlier and then it when he decided to get him license. The view over Interlaken was beautiful and we landed right in front of Hooters, the only one in Europe. Life doesn't get much  better than this.     

October 20, 2006 (Schilthorn)

Today I had planned to go to Trummelbach Falls, which has 10 waterfalls inside a mountain, but took the wrong bus and ended up at the cable car to Schilthorn. I decided it must be fate and paid the $72 cable car fee. Schilthorn is famous for having the longest ski run in the world and being the location for one of the older James Bond films. It was the best view so far including Jungfrau. At the top is a rotating restaurant which gives you a 360 degree view while eating lunch. There were beautiful panoramic views of the Eiger, Monch and Jungfrau Mountains. 

" All journeys have secret destinations of which the traveler is unaware."

                                                                                                          Martin Buber

October 20, 2006 (Murren and Gimmelwald,  Switzerland)

I got off the cable car from Schilthorn to visit the village of Murren. It is a typical small Swiss village on the mountainside. It has restaurants and hotels which makes it tourist friendly. A good place to stay in the Alps can be hard to find.

Later I went to Gimmelwald which is much smaller with only one bed and breakfast, no restaurants and the Mountain Hostel with has probably one of the best views in the Alps. Since Gimmelwald is not too far up the mountain from Murren, it is easy to get supplies and food in Murren when staying here.

October 21, 2006  (Bern, Switzerland)

I took the morning train from Interlaken to Bern. Only 1.5 hrs. I immediately walked to Olde Town to see the Glockenspiel clock with the bear chasing the rooster and the bear den. Bern was named after the bear because it was the 1st animal killed on that site. I also took pictures of the various fountains including the Ogre Fountain which depicts him eating children and the Rose Garden overlooking the city. There also was a cheese and milk market which happens every Saturday morning. 

Saturday October 21, 2006. (Lucerne, Switzerland)

After lunch I took the train from Bern to Lucerne. It has a beautiful bridge, Kapellbrucke, that has 120 captioned triangular paintings from the early 1500's that chronicle the city's history.  I also got to watch skull {rowing} races in the middle of the city with everyone lining the river and cheering. A Cheese Festival was also going on with a milking contest complete with a fake cow that gave milk. The building decorations were some of the most unusual that I have ever seen. The train ride back to Interlaken  through the mountains was breathtaking. 

Sunday October 22, 2006

I left Interlaken by train this morning to go see the Matterhorn in Zermatt. The train ride was a long 5 hrs. The ride on the cog railway up the mountain across from the Mattterhorn was beautiful with the Matterhorn staring you in the face the entire time. I decided to walk the six hours down the mountain to enjoy the scenery. I took a trail that I later found out was not the tourist trail as you may notice. A picture of some mountain scooters for the true adventurer. Got back to Zermatt just in time to catch the last train to Interlaken. 

October 23, 2006

Cloudy day so took this as opportunity to do laundry and buy presents for the kids.  I just missed Martina Hingis, famous Swiss tennis player, at Omega Store promotion downtown.  Enjoyed the "down time" and did a lot of nothing. I am learning that it is not necessary to do something every minute while traveling.  Relaxing and enjoying the experience is also important.

October 24, 2006

I decided to skydive over Lake Thun today. I jumped tandem, attached to the jumpmaster,  from 13,000 feet and there was a 35-40 second free fall before our chute opened. I had jumped several times about 20 years earlier but views then were not as spectacular as those of Switzerland.  After landing,  the jumpmaster said that was the 2nd best thing to do in Interlaken.  WHAT ????  2ND BEST.

Seems that skydiving from a HELICOPTER  inside the Jungfrau Valley is #1.  Aaarrgg I just spent $350 on skydiving from plane and now I can't get skydiving from a helicopter out of my mind. Lol 

October 25, 2006

Today I checked on Helicopter Skydiving and they did not have the minimum number of persons required. It is nearing the end of the season. Will check back later. I spent the rest of the day window shopping in Interlaken. Cuckoo clocks and Swiss chocolate everywhere. I found out that evening that I will be skydiving tomorrow at 9 am. Excited !!!

 Thursday October 26, 2007

The jumpmaster told us that there were only 3 places in the world you could jump from a helicopter in the mountains ........ Australia, Hawaii and Interlaken, Switzerland. 2 days ago I went skydiving out of a plane but the opportunity to jump from a helicopter was too great to pass on. Another major expense of $550 including the video but definitely worth it.  Unfortunately I don't have any pictures.  Need to learn how to upload my video. There was a momentary delay as a mechanic needed to perform maintenance on the helicopter. NOT A CONFIDENCE BUILDER.  But off we went, the helicopter climbed to 15,000 feet and the views were spectacular.  We jumped right inside of the Jungfrau, Monch and Eiger mountains which was quite an adrenaline rush. At one point we were only about 20 feet from a waterfall. Best money ever spent. Good day.

"decide....whether or not the goal is worth the risks involved. If  it is stop worrying ...."              Amelia Earhart

October 27, 2006

Interlaken is one of the most beautiful towns that I have ever seen. I came here for 3 days and stayed 9 days. Set in the middle of the Alps, it is a town of about 20,000 people and has a beautiful river running right through the center of town. It also has two lakes on both sides of it, therefore the name Interlaken. Ursula and Chris at Rugenpark Hostel made me feel like I was at home. I probably would have stayed longer except they were closing for the month of November. Ursula gave me a box of chocolates as a going away present. Train to Milan at 9 am and then connecting train to Lake Como, Italy.

October 27th and 28th,  2006

Overnight train to Milan and switched trains to visit Como, Italy.  Then I took a cruise on beautiful Lake Como, called the most beautiful lake in the world by many. Lake Como is the playground of the rich and famous.  George Clooney and Brad Pitt have homes here. The cruise was about 6 hours. After the cruise I went back to Milan to catch the overnight (11:35 pm) train to Paris but it was full. I found out from fellow backpacker that sometimes the conductor saves a few couchettes (sleeper) to sell. I check and fortunately he had one available for 45 euros. 

 October 29-31st, 2006

After arriving in Paris the next morning I decided to continue to Bruges,  Belgium. Bruges has one of the most beautiful "old towns" that I have seen in Europe. Belgium is famous for beer, lace, chocolate and frites {french fries} , except they use mayo rather than ketchup. The fountain had soap bubbles in it.

October 31-November 1st, 2006

I moved from the Hotel Verdi to the Ship Avanti. Bunk beds on this floating ship hostel located in the canals but much closer to downtown. I walked around the Red Light District later that night. It is illegal to take pictures in the Red Light District. You must really be careful taking pictures because plain clothes policemen will appear from nowhere if you try to take pictures of the ladies in the windows. I also stopped in a "cafe" as a curiosity but did not partake of any herbal refreshment since that is just not my thing.

Thursday November 2, 2006

I caught the local bus and went to a small village outside Amsterdam which is known for their windmills. A bus tour would have been 28 euros but the local bus only cost me 7 euros round trip. I also walked to the Red Light District during the day. Later that day there was a hail storm and 50 mph winds. Not great weather especially since almost everyone rides a bike to work in Amsterdam. The wind was blowing people off their bikes much to the amusement of us seeking refuge in the local bar.

Norwegian saying

"No such thing as bad weather, only bad clothing."

 Friday November 3, 2006 

I was supposed to stay 3 more nights in Amsterdam but changed my flight to Nov. 3rd for $230. (Crazy I know  but not going to lie, I was homesick. I justified it by saving 3 nights of hotel expense that I no longer have.

I have seen some amazing sights and done some amazing things. But enough us enough. 2 months is a long time moving what seems like non stop for a beginning traveler. My flight is scheduled  for 10:10 am.

I got to the airport at AMS at 8am. I realized after boarding that I had left my camera at the securtity check. All of my pictures. The stewardess let me go and retrieve it. I had been so careful for 60 days and almost lost it getting on the plane. It has been a great trip. Greece and Italy were incredible but Switzerland stole my heart. There is something about waking up in a small village in the middle of the Alps. I got back to Houston at 2pm and Angie was there to pick me up. I took my sister, Sandra, and Angie to dinner to thank them for putting me up and taking me to the airport and picking me up. I am glad to be home but at the same time a little sad the adventure is over. Traveling is an addiction and I was already feeling a little withdrawal 8 hrs after landing in Houston. Also, a special thanks to my brother, Morgan, whose European adventures were the basis for my traveling obsession.

 "Travel is as much a passion as ambition or love."

                                                             L.E. Landon

CHAPTER 3.   NEPAL  (March 14 - April 9th)

March 14th-17th, 2007

After a 12.5 hr. flight from Newark, NJ, I got to sit in transit at the New Delhi Airport in India for 15 hrs. For some reason it seems that all planes from the US arrive just after the last flight of the day to Nepal. Well I finally made it to Kathmandu and was picked up by my tour guide. Then I got to witness the insane traffic of Kathmandu, a city of over 1 million, but only two lanes of traffic. But that doesn't stop 5 different vehicles from trying to drive side by side, weaving in and out with reckless abandon. My viewpoint is see everything there is to see in one day and get out of Kathmandu. The street merchants are relentless. One followed me for 6 blocks until I threatened to get a policeman. 

March 17, 2007

Today I visited the Pashupatinath Hindu Temple, next to the holy river, the Bagmati, is a very popular and religous place for Hindus to be cremated. While we were on the other side of the river there were 4 cremation ceremonies going on at the same time. For a moment, life's temporary existence seems to stare you in the face. Afterwards I visited Durbar Square which  has more than 50 temples, shrines and old palaces within a few blocks.

Sunday March 18, 2007

My Everest journey begins today. Ram, my guide, picked me up at the hotel in Kathmandu and we went to the airport. We left on a small prop plane at 8:40 am to our destination, Lukla. I had heard that landing and taking off at Lukla, which is located on the side of a mountain, is an experience in itself. They were right. It is only a 30 minute flight but what a view. The runway seems less than 300 ft. long. After arriving, we hired a porter, Santos, to help with the large bag. We trekked until our arrival at Phakding. I am getting excited.

Monday March 19, 2007

Woke up very early {5:30 am}. The stars seem to be sitting on top of the mountains. Today we walked up and down mountains for 6 hrs. It was so difficult. There was a Nepalese woman about 80 yrs old walking along the same trail. I would rest and she would pass me always smiling and then she would rest and I would pass her. Finally she passed me and I would never see her again. Quite a humbling experience. I should have done more cardio. I was always looking for a reason to rest {taking a picture, sip of water or to let group of yaks pass}. I finally made it to Namche Bazaar at 1 pm and had a great lunch of yak pepper steak.

Tuesday , March 20th and Wednesday, March 21st and Thursday March 22nd

After an acclimatization day in Namche Bazaar I am getting a little used to the altitude even though I still need to rest frequently. Tuesday morning we climbed up to Syangboche Airport right above Namche Bazaar but only helicopters land there. I met a lot of climbers at the tea house but most were going straight to base camp and not to Gokyo. Gokyo is a much more difficult climb. Rested and shopped in Namche Bazaar for the rest of Tuesday. Wednesday we went to Phorste Drenka {3675 m. } and on Thursday to Macherma {4470 m.}. It was very cold in Macherma. My curtains froze to the window and my water also froze. The Nepalese people that I meet on the trail seem to be the happiest people in the world. They are hardworking but don't seem to realize that they live in poverty or at least what we call poverty. They may in fact be the richest people in the world since they all seem so happy and do not have a care in the world. I would probably also be smiling if I woke up with the Himilayas as my backyard every day.

Friday March 23, 2007.  NEPAL, Macherma (4470 m.} to Gokyo {4790 m.}

We left Macherma at 7:30 am and arrived at Gokyo at 11:30. It was a hard trek and a lot of climbing. When we got to Gokyo Lake it was frozen and therefore we realize that Lakes 4 and 5 which we were supposed to visit tomorrow are also frozen.

Saturday March 24, 2007

We left around 6:30 am and everyone was stopping every 20-30 minutes to catch their breath. The climb was incredibly hard but the view at the summit made it all worth while. The day was beautiful and cloud free. You could see the high winds blowing snow off of the peak of Everest. I do wish the lake had not been frozen because it would have been beautiful in the mountain setting. Summited about 10 am and we sat on top and looked at Everest in all its glory. The sun was getting hot and we decided to go down after 30 minutes before the ice started melting and the trails got slippery. Later, I realized I had gotten sunburned. Suntan lotion is usually hard to remember at 5 am. We got back at 12:30 pm and I took my 1st shower in 4 days. Heated showers at this altitude are expensive. ($5)  I overheard a group of young girls at a table saying,, "What is that smell." Another girl said, "That is Sarah, she took a shower today." LOL. It's true, you don't notice the smell if no one has taken a shower.  Lunch was a tuna fish sandwich and tomato soup. I quickly learned that tuna fish from a can on bread was the only consistent meal on the mountain. After lunch, I visited the "highest bookstore in the world" but only bought Pringles. Great day!!!!

March 25, 2007  (NEPAL, Dragnag (Tangnag) 4700 meters)

Left about 8:30 am after almost 12 hours of much needed sleep. 15 hours if you count the afternoon nap. The trek was only about 3 hours today and not too difficult but now I have the whole afternoon with nothing to do. The guides play cards but I don't know the games they play or have the inclination to learn. 

 Monday March 26, 2007 ( NEPAL, Cho La Pass, 5330 meters)

Left Tangnag {Dragnag} 4700 meters early this morning with about 9 other climbers. Chola Pass has been closed due to snow for the last month but we heard it had just opened. The 6.5 hrs straight up is one of the most physically challenging things that I have ever done. The scenery at the Pass was incredible with views of the mountains and glaciers at the top. We spent about 15 minutes enjoying the view, ate a quick bite and headed down for 2 more hours to the next lodge. Ram and I tried to cross a mostly frozen stream but both of us got our feet wet. Luckily we were almost to the lodge and we finally got the stove going and got our shoes dried. Great day. 

NOTE: A central stove in all the lodges provide heat and an opportunity to dry clothes and shoes. These stoves burn dried YAK DUNG. Yes there is a smell.

March 2, 2007.  (NEPAL, LaBouche to Gorashep)

We left Labouche {4910 meters }at 6:30 am and we arrived at Gorahep at about 9:00. It was not too difficult today. It was very cold last night. Our accomodations at the "tea houses" consists of 1/4 inch plyboard walls and tin roofs with no heat. My water bottle froze last night on the nightstand. A warm sleeping bag is essential.

March 28, 2007

It was very cold last night. Our accomodations at the "tea houses" consists of 1/4 inch plyboard walls and tin roofs with no heat. My water bottle froze last night on the nightstand. A warm sleeping bag is essential.  I left LaBouche at 6:30 am and arrived at Gorashep at 9:00, put clothes in the room and left 30 minutes later to climb Kalapathar. We summited at 11:40. It was an almost vertical climb and I was exhausted but the view made up for it.

At 18,192 feet/5545 meters Kalapathar had one of most amazing views that I have ever seen. From the summit, you can view 4 of the top 10 tallest mountains in the world, Changste {24,770 ft.}, Nuptse {25,850 ft.}, Lhotse {27,890 ft.} and Everest {29,035}. 

 Thursday March 29, 2007

Left at 6:30 am for Everest Base Camp from Gorashep. We arrived at EBC at about 9am. Only a few camps are up and running but that will change next week my guide said. I took pictures of the crashed helicpoter which is kind of the official site and also took pictures of Khumbu Ice Falls which people say may be the most dangerous part of climbing Everest. It is unbelievable that you cannot even see Everest from base camp because of mountains in the way. A lot of Yaks and porters carrying supplies to Everest on the trail. Ram said that most climbers start showing up on April 1st.

March 30, 2007.  (NEPAL, Teng Boche Monastery)

Left Pheriche at 7:30 am and arrived at Teng Boche at 11:00 am. I went straight to the sign that said bakery and had chocolate rolls. You have a beautiful view of Ama Dablam {mother and daughter} and the Monastery is magnificent.

We were allowed to watch the Buddhist Tea Ceremony but are not allowed to talk or take pictures during the ceremony. Several visitors did take pictures and talk and the monks were definitely unhappy about it. I can not believe that people are so disrespectful.

Saturday March 31, 2007

I got up at 5:45 am and packed my bag for Santo, my porter. We left at 7:30 am and arrived at Namche Bazaar at 11 am. Much easier walking down.  Today I spent the day shopping, relaxing and eating the best meals that I have had since my trek started. Tomorrow Lukla and then Kathmandu the day after. I went to the big local market but most things had closed by the time I got back after getting my camera. The little boy in the picture was outside my room growling and scratching on my door.  When I opened the door I noticed he had claws on like a tiger. Lol Namche Bazaar is the last place to purchase equipment, clothes and supplies for the trek. It is always busy and very beautiful.

 April 1, 2007

Left Namche Bazaar at 7:30 am and got to Lukla at 12:08 pm. About 1.5 hrs quicker than my guide said we would. Coming down the mountain after being above 18,000 feet for so long makes you feel like Superman. I felt like running most of the way. lol Tonight is the last night of our trekking trip. I got a straight razor shave at a local barber which was a little scary, best food of the trip and some celebratory Everest beer. Lukla is the starting and ending point of all trekking in the Everest region. You can find guides, porters and supplies here.

 Monday April 2, 2007

Today is the end of my 16 day trek through the Himilayas with my guide, Ram. I go to the airport at 6:30 am and wait for the 4th Yeti airplane flight. The runway is very short and goes off the side of the mountain. Landing and taking off gets the adrenaline pumping. It is amazing to watch the planes land and take off in such a short period of time. A lot of people from Kathmandu trying to get to the Himilayas and Lukla is the starting point of all trekking through the Everest Trek. The weather was perfect the entire trip. Ram said he had never seen it be cloudless everyday since he has been guiding.

 April 3, 2007

I caught the bus from Kathmandu to the rafting headquarters which was about 3 hrs. Unfortunately I was not able to take any pictues while rafting. We rafted for 2 days on Class III and Class IV rapids. Lydia, the Swedish girl, was thrown from the raft the second day. The children in the picture were at the small store above our campground.

 April 4, 2007

The Thara Village gives a realistic idea of the villages outside of the cities. I especially liked the photos of the woman shucking corn in a mosquito net and the marijuana plants lining both sides of the road which were pointed out to me by my guide. The tower in the field is to look out for rhinos which can damage the crops. I just finished the white water raft trip with my new Swedish friends, Joseph and Lydia, and was dropped off after a 2 hr. ride in the back of a jeep to a town outside Chitwan.

 April 5, 2007

The Royal Chitwan National Park is 360 square miles in size and once was the private hunting land for the King of Nepal. Of the hundred breeding tigers left in Nepal about 50 are in Chitwan. I went on a special trip with my own guide one day in search of the elusive Bengal Tiger but only came up with a fresh paw print from earlier in the day. The rhinos are most impressive and you are given instruction on what to do if they charge and you are on foot. It actually happened to one group while I was there. By the way, you zigzag as you run as they do not change direction well. Also do not wear bright colored clothing. This safari is no way comparative to Africa but was nice for a couple of days rest. But your wildlife viewing will be mostly rhinos, birds and a few monkeys along with the elephants that you ride. 

 April 6, 2007

Elephants have a big role at the Island Resort. The visitors are allowed to bathe the elephants every afternoon and in the morning the elephants are used in a safari in search of the rhino and tiger.

 April 7, 2007

The Island Resort in the Royal Chitwan National Park was very nice. I stayed there for 5 days and 4 nights. There were usually about 50-60 people there but a few days there were only 5 of us. Usually a big group would show up. We bathed elephants, went on elephant safaris, walked through the jungle looking for tigers and rhinos and watched local tribes do custom ritual dances. You have to be ferried in a boat across the river to the island. It was a nice way to wind down after trekking through the Himilayas for 16 days. I will spend 1 more night in a hotel in Kathmandu (8th) before flying home.

 April 9, 2007

I leave today after an amazing adventure in the Himalayas.  My flight from Kathmandu leaves at 2:45 pm to Delhi, India and then a 6 hour layover until my direct flight to New York. Delhi Airport is not where you want a 6 hour layover. Upon arriving in Delhi I was unable to find a reservation desk to get my boarding pass for the flight home but I did hear them calling out names for upcoming flights. I assumed that was the protocol, wait until your name is called. As departure time approached, I noticed a flight screen flashing that my plane was boarding and still no one has called my name. With only 1 flight per day from Delhi to the U.S. , I began to get concerned. Finally I found someone to help me and it seems the airline did not have me listed as a passenger by error. They wanted me to take another flight the next day (24 hours later) but I refused. Luckily I got on the plane with 15 minutes to spare and located my seat in the far back of the plane. My bags were not so lucky as there  was no time to check them. I was assured they would be sent later. 

A few minutes before takeoff, the pilot announced that the plane was completely full BUT he BELIEVED we had enough fuel to make it to New York without refueling. DID HE JUST SAY THAT OUTLOUD.... I was thinking to myself. 

Then I heard my name being called and asking me to come to the front of the plane to speak with a stewardess.  Immediately I thought I was going to be bumped because the plane was overloaded and I was the last to board. However, as my dad would say, " A blind hog found an acorn." LOL. I was being upgraded to 1st Class for the flight for all the trouble I encountered. Free gourmet food, snacks , drinks and room to sleep for next 12 hours was just what the doctor ordered. 

About an hour before arriving in New York, the pilot announced we would be making an unscheduled (emergency) landing at a military base in Canada for fuel. REALLY!!!!  Guess he didn't have enough fuel. Fortunately the remainder of the trip was uneventful.  Got my bags a week later. Still GREAT TRIP. 

Inconveniences are a small price to pay for amazing life experiences. 

CHAPTER 4.  PERU and BOLIVIA  

 May 18, 2007

Checked into my hostel and headed for the Plaza de Armas, the center of activity for Cusco. I checked out several local travel agents for prices for the Salkantay 5 day/4 night hike to Machu Picchu. I found one which included cooks, porters, guides, entrance fee to Machu Picchu, accommodations for one night in Aguas Calientes and the train ride back to Cuzco for only $166.00.

Saturday May 19, 2007

I took the city tour to see the Temple of the Sun and Sacsayhuaman, a fortress-temple complex,  on the outskirts of Cusco . I was the only one on the tour bus that did not speak Spanish, so it was a little embarrassing that the guide had to repeat everything just for me. Later that evening I found a little pizza place with only two tables, a wood oven and just locals. Even though I spoke no Spanish and they spoke no English we seemed to communicate just fine. I have learned in my short time traveling to look for places where the locals eat. The food is usually the best and least expensive. 

Sunday May 20, 2007

The Sacred Valley was beautiful. Went to Ollantaytambo which is the best preserved Inca site. We also went to the Sunday market in one of the small towns. The terraces on the side of the mountains were almost unreal. How the farmers work on these steep terraces is a wonder. 

 Monday May 21, 2007

Left at 4:30 am to go to Molepata to start our 5 days hike through the Salkantay Trail to Machu Picchu. In our group were 2 English, 1 from Netherlands, 1 Scottish, 1 Irish and me. Deirdre {Irish} and Sam {Scottish} are married and have traveled all around the world. I loved listening to some of their travels. The first day we climbed to 3900 meters. It was cold that night and there may have been a Andean bear roaming around the tents. The Salkantay Mountain was beautiful.

 Tuesday May 22, 2007

Woke up at 5 am and left at 6:15 am. Today was very hard, almost straight up. There were some switchback trails which helped. We finally reached the Salkantay Pass which is 4653 meters. Then we walked down to 2900 meters. I forgot suntan lotion and my face is starting to burn.

 Wednesday May 23, 2007

We had to get up early to catch the bus in the next village at 12 pm. {so we thought} Found out later it was just so the guides and porters could all meet up and play soccer at the village at noon. After we finally got to eat , we got in the back of the bus and rode on a very narrow road along some very steep cliffs. Later that evening we all went to the hot springs to get a well deserved rest and cold beer.

 Thursday May 24, 2007

Today we had to cross a river using cables and a pulley chair. We then walked along the railroad tracks all the way into Aguas Calientes. Diedre had some great interaction with the local school children. It was one of those special moments which we unfortunately do not get to be a part of often enough.

Friday May 25, 2007

Stayed in a hostel in Aguas Calientes last night. We left at around 5 am and arrived at Machu Picchu at 6:10 am, hours before the tourist buses get there. To walk, you must climb about 1700 steps straight up the mountain. A task hard enough by itself but leaving my water at the breakfast table made it a bit more difficult. The view was spectacular especially since we were the only ones there at the beginning. Just us and the llamas. About 7:30 the clouds rolled in and Machu Picchu essentially disappeared for about 2 hours. About 10 am it cleared up again. I walked to the Sun Gate and the Inka bridge which both are an additional 1 hr walk each. After lunch I walked down the 1000 steps {all to save $3}, caught the train to Ollantaytambo and then switched to the bus to Cusco. We got back about 7:30 pm. Later that night I met up with all of the group at the highest Irish Pub in the world and we closed it down. Great day.

May 26th and 27th

Slept, slept and slept. The combination of the exhausting day of Machu Picchu and the return to Cusco with late night at Irish Pub took its toll. I did find time to wash clothes and plan my upcoming trip to Lake Titticaca.  Meeting Sam and Deidre for dinner. Deidre has been fussing at me for not visiting Ireland yet.

May 28th and 29th, 2007

I caught the bus from Cusco to Puno and checked into my hotel. The next day I joined a tour to the Uros Islands (floating islands) on Lake Titticaca. The islands are made of reeds and 3-10 families live on each of the islands. There are approximately 80 islands and each belongs to a family clan. The islands were originally built to keep the Incas and later the Spanish from taking their people slaves. These islands provided the seclusion needed to keep them from being found. The occupants must add up to 3 feet of reeds to their islands every 6-9 months to keep them afloat. 

Afternoon bus to Copacabana, Bolivia for the night. Beautiful view of Lake Titticaca  from my room. Plan to visit the Isle of Sol tomorrow and then go La Paz, Bolivia.

May 30, 2007

Took the boat from Copacabana to Isle of Sol. The island has paths which circle the entire island.. The path mainly follows the top of the hills on the coast and gives great views all the times. Some of the paths were in stone and made by the Incas. I got lost at the end of the day due to a local giving me the wrong directions and missed the last boat. I stayed at the same hostel Deidre and Sam were staying.

Thursday May 31, 2007

I caught the bus to La Paz, Bolivia. The bus ride was 3.5 hrs including the ferry ride. I checked into a hostel next to Downhill Madness, a company that takes people biking down the "Death Road". Rooms in hostel are still pretty cold at night. Tomorrow I bike down the Death Road.

 June 1, 2007.  (BOLIVIA, "DEATH ROAD")

It is called the "Death Road" because on average over 150 people a year die on this road. The descent is 3800 meters and is 64 km long. It is about 600 meters or 2000 feet fall if you go off the road at almost any point. They also did not tell us that we had to ride on the outside edge due to traffic until we got there. Almost entire trip is downhill and it seems as though you are continuously  braking. I had two minor crashes but nothing serious. It had been about 25 years since my last bike ride. One of the riders behind me did slide off the edge of the road but another guy and I pulled him up. Quite an exhilarating experience. 

Saturday June 2, 2007. (PERU, Arequipa)

I caught the bus to Arequipa. I had to cross the border again to go into Peru. The original hostel that I was going to stay at was awful. I found a great hostel while talking to a travel agent who arranged my trip to Colca Canyon. Arequipa was one of the most beautiful cities that I visited in Peru. The plaza was great and had several nice restaurants plus was only 3 blocks from my hostel. The market that I visited on Sunday was nice and had fresh fruit drinks, vegetables, meats and anything else you could possibly want.

June 3, 2007  (PERU, Arequipa, Monasterio De Santa Catalina)

It is called an Island of Serenity in Peru's White City {Arequipa}. Covering an entire city block, the original convent was built in 1580. At its maximum 450 women were living there in this quiet, self-contained community. It had a reputation of an exclusive club where young girls of aristocratic families arrived for an education, safe haven or a spiritual vocation.

Monday June 4, 2007.  (PERU, Chivay, base for Colca Canyon)

I took the bus early on a tour from Arequipa to Chivay which would be our base to visit the Colca Canyon and see the Andean Condors. The first picture is of Acuna grazing on the plains. The Acuna are the official animal of Peru, not the Llama. Good jeopardy question. Our vehicle broke down on the way for 1.5 hrs but we finally made it. The uninvited alpaca keep licking the bottom of our roadside table. We finally looked and saw he was licking gum stuck to the bottom of the table. I met two great Canadian girls, Alex and Kylie, with whom I spent the night partying at the local Irish Pub {yes they had an Irish Pub in Chivay} even though it is very small. At dinner, we saw Peruvian folk dancing and had good meal.

Tuesday June 5, 2007.   (PERU, Colca Canyon and Andean Condors)

"We take to the breeze, we go as we please."

Charlottes Web E.B. White

Took the bus at 6 am to go to Condor Cross. This is the site at the Colca Canyon which is best for viewing the Andean Condors soaring in the Andes. The Condors, about 7 of them, would almost appear out of nowhere catching the updrafts of wind in the canyon. At times they would fly only 15-20 feet over our heads. It was nature at its finest. The Colca Canyon was also impressive and is at least twice as deep as the Grand Canyon according to the guide. The baby alpaca was the center of attention when we stopped for lunch in the next village.

Wednesday June 6, 2007.  (PERU, Iquitos, Gateway to the Amazon)

I left Arequipa at 11:20 am to go to Iquitos, Peru to begin my Amazon adventure. I had a 4 hr. layover in Lima but still arrived in Iquitos at 7 pm. I took my taxi {3 wheel motorcycle to center of town and found a hostel. My taxi stopped at a street money changer to let me change dollars into soles. I caught him trying to cheat me the 1st time but somehow he shortchanged me the second time. Lesson learned. The road for 3 miles to the city from the airport were covered in glass and burning trash. The taxi driver said they were having peaceful demonstrations. I hope I don't see any demonstrations. The taxi driver tried to double the price at the end of the ride. Due to the road conditions he said. I denied his request and just walked away. Going to sleep and will try and find an inexpensive trip down the Amazon tomorrow.

Thursday June 7, 2007.  (PERU, Iquitos and Yellow Rose of Texas)

Talked to Exploroma about 4 night/5 day Amazon trip and they wanted $832. Finally found a local tourist company who offered me a 6 night/7 day trip without the luxury accommodations for $360. I went to a restaurant I had read about in the Lonely Planet guide that had great American food, The Yellow Rose of Texas. Gerald, the owner, is originally from Thibideaux, Louisiana but moved to Texas when he was a young boy. He has been in Iquitos for about 30 yrs he said. Good food, great looking waitresses and is open 24 hrs a day. Mostly visited by tourists.

In Iquitos, the Belen District  is the slum area consisting mostly of floating houses and floating shops. The rise and fall of the river makes this necessary for the low lying area.

 Friday June 8, 2007.  (PERU, Slow Boat Down the Amazon)

I caught the slow boat down the Amazon to get to my remote destination 150 miles from the nearest city or town of any size. The trip will last about 18 hrs and my sleeping quarters will be a hammock along 250 other people. There will also be bananas, cattle and various other goods which will be transported back to Iquitos on the return trip. Many villagers also pay the fee to return to their villages after going to the city for supplies. The Amazon was so enormous it was almost unbelievable. You can not see the banks of both sides at some times. It looks like an ocean.

 Saturday June 9, 2007.  (PERU,Amazon, Canoe trip to Camp)

We took a canoe and went down a tributary of the Amazon River to our camp site. We passed several houses that belonged to friends of my guide. While traveling down the river my guide filled up my empty coke bottle with river water and drank it. He showed me the water and it was perfectly clear. The guide said the Amazon was the cleanest river in the world and was just dark due to the soil on the top which has not settled yet. We passed balsa wood that had been cut and tied together to float down the river at a later date. Hard to believe that as remote as were were there was still some logging going on.

June 9-12th, 2007

Slept pretty well for 1st night in the jungle. A cabin with no electricity, makeshift toilet, and a mattress with a mosquito net was the extent of my accomodations. My breakfast consisted of Piranha cooked in Banana  leaves. It was great though the head was still attached and was a little scary looking with its teeth very noticeable. I am going fishing for Piranha later in the canoe. (Caught 4)

While in the Amazon, we walked through the forest while the guide showed me the medicinal plants and what there uses were. We would also fish, mostly for Piranha, in the mornings to have fresh food to eat. We only took two live chickens and vegetables with us to the camp for the week. At night we went looking for Caiman {alligators}. My guide, Raphael, caught a young Caiman one night and they also shot a river rat that they jumped out of the boat and chased along the bank one night. Ending trip earlier than expected as I got bored. Late afternoon boat back to Iquitos.

Wednesday June 13, 2007

Back in Iquitos and decided to go to Butterfly Farm and animal sanctuary. I caught a boat down the river a few kilometers and found my way to the site. A woman from Austria had moved here 20 years ago and began the Butterfly Farm which breeds butterflies in their natural habitat. She also has accumulated monkeys, alligators, parrots, a tapir, a jaguar and even an anteater. The woman told me that a parrot fell into the small pond and that the alligators ate it. She said the parrot fell into the pond because the monkeys like to sneak up behind them and pull out their tail feathers.

June 14th - June 18th, 2007

I caught a flight from Iquitos to Lima and then slept in the airport until my early morning flight to Trujillo.

I spent a couple of days relaxing in Trujillo where I visited Chan Chan, a pre-Colombian city and  archeological site. Then last few days in a small coastal village of Huanchaco. Nice beaches. The fisherman here still use reed boats to fish in the ocean. The boats are called cabillitos de tortora. Cabillitos means "little horse". Fisherman kneel on them rather than ride in them. Nice to just relax without trying to see too many sights. I leave on the bus from Truijillo at 11 pm and will arrive in Lima at 8 am. Then taxi to Airport and flight home at 2:30 pm. Good trip.

CHAPTER 5.  IRELAND and NORWAY

August 23, 2007.  (IRELAND, Dublin, Trinity College, Temple Bar)       

Well I finally made it to Dublin after my flight was rerouted to Atlanta from Cincinatti. I arrived about 9:30 a.m. and caught the 41 bus which went straight to my hostel. Unfortunately, check-in was not until 2:00 p.m. so I walked around until then.

First I went to Trinity College to see the Book of Kells. This book was written by Scottish monks in the 8th century. It is in latin and represents the 1st 4 books of the new testament. The pictures and artistic writing are unbelievable and I cannot imagine how much time it took to create that much detail. Google the Book of Kells if you get a chance. I then went to the Long Room which is their library and home to over 700,000 books. Most of them are over 400 years old and in latin.

By this time it was well after 2:00 pm so I checked into the hostel and caught a few hours sleep. When I woke up I went to the Temple Bar which is Dublin's equivalent of the French Quarter. With over 1000 pubs in Dublin, I do not see how they get any work done. It is said that there is no walking route across Dublin where you will not pass a PUB. I found a nice pub with original Irish fok music and ordered my first Guinness. It is very dark and takes several minutes for it to settle so that you can drink it. It was quite bitter but by the second pint I could see that this could become an acquired taste.

I met two girls from England and we tried several other Irish beers and Jameson whiskey. One of the English girls was drinking Jameson and lemonade. Tasted pretty good. I was told by an Irish woman on the plane that I would probably spend a lot of my time in the pubs while in Ireland because that is where the Irish spend their time. I can see that now.

The Irish like to go to the pubs and have craic (crack).  The first time I heard that I was a little surprised and then I learned that craic is good conversation and a good time.

August 24, 2007   (IRELAND, Kilkenny Castle and hostel accomodations)

Caught the 11:30 bus to Kilkenny {Ireland's medieval city}. In Ireland the bus ticket does not reserve you a seat, it only means that you have a ticket to that destination for that day. To make sure you have a seat for a certain time you have to wait in line for the bus for 30-45 minutes before it leaves. The bus ride was 2 hrs. Kilkenny has about 20,000 people and all the sites to see are within 15 minutes of my hostel. The most famous of the sites is the Kilkenny Castle. I hope to post pictures as soon as I figure how. I am still trying to adjust to the cost of everything here. After Peru everything is going to seem expensive. I figured out that everything is about 10 times more expensive than Peru. A McDonalds happy meal is almost $8.00. So far the hostel has been fine. Having 7 roommates takes a little getting used to especially if a lot of them are girls. Waiting for the bathroom can take a while.

 Saturday August 25, 2007

Another day, another pub. Took it easy today and just walked around. Went to bed early but sometimes a hostel's great location is also a detriment which I learned as I tried to sleep with drunken party-goers rambling the streets till 2 am. Lesson learned, don't go to sleep early. When in Ireland. This is a typical hostel everywhere. The other picture is the Kilkenny Castle.

Note: I thought that understanding the language in Ireland would be easier than South America but not so much. I understand every 3rd word of the Irish speaking English and a lot of young and old speak Gaelic which sounds a little like German.

"Those who wander are not necessarily lost."
J.R.R. Tolkien

August 26, 2007.   (IRELAND, Rock of Cashel)

The pictures are the Rock of Cashel in Cashel, Ireland. Legend says that St. Patrick arrived here in AD 432 and baptized King Aengus, who became the Ireland' s first christian ruler. This is also where he plucked the shamrock to explain the mystery of the Trinity and is how it became Ireland's symbol. This was the home to the kings of Munster from 370 AD until 1101.

After going to the Rock of Cashel I stopped in Cahir to see the Cahir Castle which is one of the best preserved castles in Ireland and the Swiss Cottage which was about 3 km away.

August 27-29, 2007.  (IRELAND, Cork)

After Kilkenny,  I took the bus to Cork. It is a large city with 175,000 people. I checked into the Bru Hostel and did what most backpackers do, talk to other travelers about the sites to see and places to visit. 

The next day I caught the bus to Blarney to visit the Blarney Castle and kiss the famous Blarney Stone. Kissing the Blarney Stone supposedly gives you the " Gift of Gab". While there I also visited the Blarney Manor, gardens, and witches steps. I walked up and down the witches steps with my eyes closed which is supposed to give me a free wish within a year. Killarney tomorrow. 

August 29- 31, 2007.  (IRELAND,  Killarney, Dingle Peninsula)

I have been in Killarney for the past 2 days. Yesterday I went on a tour bus to the Dingle Peninsula and got some great pictures of the coast and the Blasket Islands, which is the nearest European land mass to the US. Unfortunately, this computer is locked and I cannot download the pictures. I will try again at my next hostel.

Today I start a 9 day trek around the Ring of Kerry Way. The walking path is 135 miles and hopefully well marked. This part of the trip is supposed to be the most beautiful.

On another note, I finally got the courage to use the hostels kitchen to store food in the refrigerator. Something about leaving food in there when everyone has access but everything is marked and there doesn't seem to be a problem.

Friday, August 31, 2007.  (IRELAND, Hiking , Kerry Way, Killarney to Glencar)

Started walking from Killarney to Black Valley {22 km. or 14 miles}. I left at 7:30 am and got to the Black Valley hostel at 3:00 pm but they were closed until 5:00. The path goes by Muckross House and the Torc Waterfall. I decided to keep on walking to the next town. Not the smartest of moves. I arrived in Glencar at 9:00 pm. That is a total of 13.5 hrs walking my first day with only a 10 minutes break for a ham sandwich. The hostel/pub/restaurant was a welcome site. I sat at a table with a people from South Africa, Germany, Australia and Irish. Also, the two girls bartending were from Poland. Ate some Irish stew, had a few beers and crashed in the dorm.

Saturday , September 1, 2007

Started out hiking about 9:00 am towards Glenbeigh which is only 8 miles from Glencar. As soon as I started on the track I ran into Simon, the 21 yr. old Aussie, and we decided to trek together for a while. We arrived in Glenbeigh about 2:00 and asked where we could find a room. The man laughed and said this weekend was the biggest festival of all year and most rooms were probably booked. We found a B&B which had just received a cancellation. 30 euros apiece for twin beds and a complete breakfast. About 14 euros more than the hostel but the breakfast was worth about 9 euros. Luckily I had run into Simon or I would have had to pay 60 euros myself. We then went to the beach and watched the horse races. Quite interesting. I will post pictures when possible. Later music played in the street and people were still partying at 6:00 am. I had crashed about 12 but still heard most of the partying. The B & B owner said he partied until 6. Will continue to update at next hostel if possible.

 September 2 thru 6th, 2007.   (IRELAND, Kerry Way, Glenbeigh to         Carchiveen to Sneems to Kenmare to Killarney)

Hiked from Glenbeigh to Carchiveen. It was one of the hardest days I have ever hiked in my life. Up and down about 14 hills which were 600 to 1800 feet each. The next day I trekked from Carchiveen to Sneems. High up on the hills you could see the coast below. The next day was to Kenmare and then finally back to Killarney. 7 days and 135 miles. Tired but it was beautiful. Saw horse racing on beach in Glenbeigh. The blackberries kept the hunger pains away and they seemed to be all along the Kerry Way. Yum.

September 7, 2007.   (IRELAND, Doolin)

Caught the bus to Doolin. Had a 4 hr layover in Galway. Nice university town with pedestrian walkways. Arrived at Doolin and tomorrow I get to see the Cliffs of Moher.

Saturday, September 8, 2007.   (IRELAND, Cliffs of Moher)

Today was a great day. The hostel owner told me of a great path to the Cliffs of Moher from the hostel. The path was right beside the cliffs starting close to the hostel and lasting for about 2 hours . The path was outside a barbed wire fence and only left about 6-12 inches between the path and the cliff. It was quite an adrenaline rush. I walked a total of 8 hrs today partially because I did not want to pay for the bus to return. The view of the Cliffs was spectacular. I took sandwiches for lunch and sat on the edge of the cliff for over an hour just taking in the scenery. I cant wait to find a computer that will let me post some pictures.

"As you walk and eat and travel, be where you are, otherwise you will miss most of your life."
Buddha

September 10, 2007.   (IRELAND, Galway)

Today I am in Galway. I will take the bus to Dublin tomorrow and catch the 3:15 pm flight to Oslo, Norway. I will stay in Norway until September 30th and then fly back to Dublin for my final few days. Below are a few pictures of Galway which is a university town and supposedly the liveliest of all towns in Ireland. I will know more tomorrow. I have actually stopped here on two other occasions while changing buses for a few hours and it looks like a lot of fun. Last night I was in Clifden and met a man from Tennessee. I just had to rub it in how good the LSU Tigers are.

"Life is not measured by the number of breaths we take but by the places and moments that take our breath away." Unknown

September 11, 2007.  (IRELAND, Clifden, Connemara)

Day trip to  Clifden which is in the Connemara region. It was a very beautiful town and like most places in Ireland had great music. I also walked the Sky Road which runs above the town and has a great view of the Atlantic Ocean. Afternoon bus back to Galway, then a few of us from the hostel visited the Crane Pub, where local musicians practice their music. 

September 12, 2007.  (Galway to Dublin Airport to Oslo, Norway)

I woke up at 6:20 am and had to get my stuff together in the dark to not wake everyone in the dorm. I took the bus from Galway to the Dublin Airport and arrived at 12:30 pm. My flight to Oslo, Norway was scheduled at 3:25 pm. I arrived at the Airport at 6:30 pm but still had a 2 hour bus ride into Oslo. (One of the problems in flying cheap airlines)   Checking into my really nice but expensive hostel. I paid $50 for the right to sleep in a tiny bunk bed with 9 other people in the room. (However, cheapest alternative)

September 13th, 2007.  (NIGHTMARE IN NORWAY, Finse and Bergen)

I got up early, ate breakfast, checked out and went on the train to Finse,  where I had planned on doing some hiking in the mountains. I arrived in Finse and was told the Hostel had closed 5 days ago for remainder of the season and that I should find a hotel. The cheapest hotel room was 135 euros ($150) and definitely not in my budget. The next train to Bergen, my next planned destination,  was at 8:20 pm so I purchased a ticket and explored Finse. 

I arrived in Bergen at 10:30  pm and could not find the hostel nor did anyone know of it. (Seems they had changed the name) Hard to find people willing to help late at night. It started raining and someone mentioned another hostel. Got there and it closes at 9 pm and there was no reception. Still raining. All hotels I checked were 180 euro ($210). REALLY !!!!  I tried going to he train station to sleep but it was locked until the morning. After being chased by a homeless man who insisted on talking to me, I reluctantly agreed to pay $150 for a hotel at about 1 am. My cold, soaking wet, aching,  exhausted body thanked me. Planning better instead of "winging it" will becone the core of all my future trips.  

September 14, 2007  (NORWAY,  Voss)

I found a hostel in Voss, near Finse, that would serve my purposes.  After a great night of sleep, I caught the 10:28 am train. Upon arriving at the train station, I asked for directions to the hostel. When I arrived I was informed that MY hostel was 40 kilometers from here. The receptionist helped me cancel my other reservation and booked me for 2 nights. At only $40 a night in the dorm, I was ecstatic.  This hostel will be closing in 10 more days. I checked the weather and saw that tomorrow would be a great day to visit the fjords, the main reason I came to Norway.

NORWAY MIRACLE

After  checking into my hostel in Voss, I was looking for a sign of better things to come. I went to the local market to buy sandwich meat for the next few days and that is when it happened. Right in front of me was a package of 10 hot dog wieners and 10 hot dog buns. That's right, an even number of both. Not sure if this would make the pope's list of miracles but it is certainly something that I have neither seen or heard of in my lifetime. lol This was the sign I was waiting for and I quickly purchased them.

Saturday, September 15, 2007.  (NORWAY IN A NUTSHELL)

The next day was overcast but had great visibility so I went on the "Norway In A Nutshell" tour. It started with a bus ride down the mountains on hairpin turns, then on a two hour ferry ride through the   most beautiful fjords in Norway and then finished by train on the famous Flam Railroad. When we  most beautiful fjords in Norway and then finished by train on the famous Flam Railroad. When we arrived at the town of Myrdal , high in mountain, it started to snow very hard. Overall, it was everything that I came to Norway to do. Trekking through the mountains would be nice but all the hostels in the mountains closed in August much to my dismay.

Sunday I take the train back to Oslo and Monday I fly back to Dublin 12 days earlier than planned. The fact that trekking is not possible and Norway is the most expensive country in Europe made going back to Dublin early an easy decision.

Monday, September 17, 2007

I spent Sunday night in a hostel in Oslo and will fly to Dublin today at 7pm. Earler today I took the ferry in Oslo to see the Viking Museum. They have 3 original viking ships that have been restored. There are also other viking artifacts such as wagons, carts and cooking utensils. It was quite a sight to see. I also visited the Kon-Tiki Museum which included the raft and the
boat made out of papyrus. This boat and raft sailed across the Atlantic Ocean and part of the Pacific to prove that ancient civilizations could have colonized far away countries many years ago. My flight to Dublin is at 7 pm.

"I sought to see the amazing as normal, and the daily as unique, and in that swirling paradox I found the joy of travel."
Mary Poxon

September 18 -20th, 2007  (Dublin, Powerscourt House)

Today I took a guided bus tour to Powerscourt House and Gardens, Glendalough, and through the Wicklow Mountains. The Gardens are supposed to be one of the most beautiful in all of Europe. The house and gardens reminded me very much of Versailles. I fly back to New Orleans on the 20th and can't wait to see everyone. GREAT TRIP !!!

CHAPTER 6.   NEW ZEALAND and AUSTRALIA

November 10-12th, 2007.  (NEW ZEALAND, Auckland)

Beau dropped me off at the NO airport for my 1:55 pm flight to LA. I had a brief (1 hr) layover in Houston and arrived in LA at 6:00 pm. I left at 9:00 pm for Auckland and arrived at 7:30 am on MONDAY morning. Lost a day crossing over the international time line. The flight from LA to Auckland was 12.5 hrs and I actually got a little sleep this time. I went to the top of the Sky Tower which is supposed to be the tallest building in the southern hemisphere and took some great pictures. Unfortunately, I left my usb cable for my camera and will not be able to download pictures until I can find a new one. I will try soon. Other than the Sky Tower, wasnt loving Auckland.

November 13, 2007.  (National Park Village)

I caught an early bus for the six hour bus ride to National Park Village. This will be my base for the one day trek to climb the Tongairiro Crossing which is reputed to be the best one day trek in all New Zealand. There are only a few people at my hostel which makes sleeping easier. The town is a big ski resort and since it is only a few weeks to summer here, things are a little slow until the hikers get here in the summer.

November 14, 2007

I got up early to catch the bus transport to the Crossing but it was SNOWING. No kidding, 2 weeks till summer and it looked like a blizzard for about an hour. The winds also reached about 70 mph throughout the North Island which is where I was. I decided to stay another day and try my luck. Not much to do here and there are only 3 local tv stations. lol

November 15, 2007

The bus arrived at the hostel at 7:15 am and 2 German girls and I climbed aboard. We stopped at another hostel and picked up 18 more trekkers. We arrived at the start of the Crossing about 8 am. It is a 18 kilometer hike throught the mountains which is about 11 miles. The bus driver said he would pick us up at the other end of the Crossing at 4pm. The weather was overcast and quite windy. I was the 1st one out the bus and on the trail. I did not want to get behind some that looked as though they had no business there. Along the trail I passed a group of 30 teenagers on some kind of field trip. Then all of a sudden, straight up the mountain. It was getting colder and the wind was blowing harder. There was snow all over the ground. At one point, myself and 2 other climbers thought we may be summiting the wrong mountain but realized that we just had hit the hardest part of the climb. The wind at the top of Red Crater would almost blow you down and in fact one girl later said it did. Unfortunately the first 3 hours did not result in very good scenery. After crossing Red Crater though, the wind was not as bad and the sun started shining some. The views got better and I could understand why this is one of the most trekked areas in all New Zealand. I finished the Crossing at 1:45 pm and had to wait for over 2 hrs for the bus. At the end of the trek there were about 100 other people waiting for their buses also. Back to the hostel to rest my now aching muscles. lol

November 16-18th.  (NEW ZEALAND, Wellington, Picton, and Queen Charlotte Track, Day 1) 

I caught the afternoon bus from the National Park to Wellington. Wellington was a great city with a lot of night life and great restaurants. After Wellington, I caught the ferry to Picton on the South Island. It is a beautiful boat trip with great scenery for about 3 hrs. You can save the $65 dollar ferry boat fee if you decide to skydive from Wellington. You leave Wellington but land in Picton and the plane brings your baggage. Nice alternative, though a little more expensive.

Picton is a nice little town which is the center for trips to the Queen Charlotte Track, Abel Tasman Track or wine tours of the Marlborough region. I completed the Queen Charlotte Track in 3 days. It was more difficult than I expected mainly because one day was 35 kilometers. It was supposed to be 4 days but I walked past my accomodations. lol The Track is up and down the mountains every day but the scenery was unbelievable. Definitely a must do.

November 19, 2007. (NEW ZEALAND, Queen Charlotte Track , Day 2)

Today was supposed to be an easy 2-3 hr walk to my next hut. Somehow I missed Naolines Homestay and by the time I realized it (3 large hills and about 2 miles) I decided to continue to the next place that I had booked. I had started at 9 am and arrived at my next destination (Debritts) at 7 pm and one day early. 35 kilimoters (21 miles) in all with the hardest part of the track this day. The owners called the place I was supposed to stay and she was worried because I was 9 hrs late. Another thing I didn't realize, most trekkers or trampers as they say in NZ let the water taxis take their baggage from hut to hut so that you don't have to carry all that weight. I thought only a few wimps did this but I found out that I was the 1 in a 100 that carried my own bag which now weighs about 25 lbs.

November 20, 2007.  (NEW ZEALAND, Queen Charlotte Track, Day 3)

I left at 9am and was told it was a 6 hr walk to Anikiwa where the water taxi would pick me up at 4:30 pm. It was straight up most of the morning which is just what you want to see after the previous 10 hr day. LOL The view of Queen Charlotte Sound are so beautiful that you almost don't feel the searing pain in your legs and shoulders. lol I actually made it at 1:50pm and had to wait around for a few hrs. So I have an extra day and decided to go on a half day wine tour through the Marlborough Wine Vineyards. It was $59NZ and I think I can drink that much wine since we will visit 5 wineries and all tastings are included.

November 21, 2007.  (NEW ZEALAND,  Marlborough Wine tour)

Since I finished the Queen Charlotte Track a day early, I decided to do a half day wine tour through the Marlborough Country. There were 10 of us on the bus and we visited 4 wineries. The only wine questions any of us had were when were they going to pour the next free wine sample. New Zealand has only been producing wine for about 20 years but there are orchards springing up everywhere.

Thursday,  November 22, 2007

Happy Thanksgiving to All. Even though it is still Wednesday there, I can still smell the Turkey and Dressing. I just arrived in Christchurch after a 6 hr bus ride. Great weather and beautiful country. I went to the Sargeant Peppers Club for dinner and had a great STEAK??? Okay, no turkey to be found so steak is splurging for me. Yes, the Sargeant Pepper Club had Beatles posters everywhere and played Beatles music but was still very good, if not classy. No one really understands the concept of Thanksgiving here and probably not many in the states either. Canadians have Thanksgiving but in October. I leave for Queenstown tomorrow and then to Te Anau to start more tramping (trekking).

November 23, 2007.   (NEW ZEALAND, Mount Cook)

I caught the bus from Christchurch and went to Mount Cook (NZ highest mountain at a little over 12,000 ft.). The statute is that of Sir Edmund Hillary who was the first climber to climb Everest. He was from NZ and Mt. Cook was where he and his sherpa, Tenzig Norgay, practiced before their Everest summit. I was there for a couple of hrs and then continued to Queenstown to spend the night. Tomorrow I catch the early bus to Te Anau and then a cruise on the famous Milford Sound.

Saturday November 24, 2007

I caught the 1:15pm  cruise ship for the Milford Sound Cruise. The day was overcast but we still had great views of Milford Sound (which is really a fjord but they never changed the name). We cruised out to the ocean and returned coming within 10 feet of magnificent waterfall and we also got to see a group of seals basking on the rocks. On the way back it rained quite a bit but as they like to say, "It makes the waterfalls more spectacular." 

Back to Te Anau for the night and on to the Kepler Track tomorrow. Pictures will come probably tomorrow. 

November 25-27, 2007

The Kepler Track is a 3 day 61 kilometer (41 mile) track. It is rated as moderate to hard in degree of difficulty. On the second day, I had 1.5 hrs of hard SNOW while I was walking. It was beautiful and aggravating at the same time. It hampered my view for a while but later the weather cleared. The bunk houses where we slept were like freezers and only your sleeping bag kept you from freezing. People from all over the world especially Germany.

November 28-30, 2007

After spending November 27th in a Te Anau hostel, I headed out again for my 4th track since arriving in NZ. This track is much easier and only 30k but has maybe the most beautiful scenery of all the tracks. The hut wardens tell you that on a 3 day tramp they will guarantee you one day of rain and they were right. After a beautiful 1st day, the second day was 5 hrs of drizzle, rain, sleet and then hard snow. It took me several hours to thaw. LOL But it was worth every second as you will see when I get some pictures up hopefull tomorrow. At the end of the track I went to Queenstown for 5 days of adventure. At one of the huts was a group of 16 international high school students who were studying in NZ for a year. Each student was from a different country. 

 November 30 -December 5, 2007

I arrived in Queenstown directly after finishing the Routeburn Tract. Queenstown has about 8500 residents and is set in the middle of the mountains and on a lake. It is considered the "adrenaline capital of the world". With beautiful weather, great scenery and lots of exciting things to do, there are not many places in the world that could be better. Sky diving, bungy jumping , canyoning, snow skiing, mountain climbing, downhill luging, parasailing, hangliding, jet boating and the list goes on. Young people from around the world are drawn here for the energy and excitement. It reminds me of my "previous" favorite place, Interlaken, Switzerland, except cooler.

I survived the Canyon Swing which is essentially a 200 ft. bungy jump which turns into a giant swingin arch. To get a better idea of this go to canyonswing.co.nz It was quite a rush, kinda like flying. I also climbed to the summit of the Ben Lomond track and the 3 hr climb rewarded me with some of the best views that I have seen in NZ. Can't wait to post the pictures.

December 6-9, 2007 (NEW ZEALAND,  Pahia Bay)

After the excitement of Queenstown, I was looking forward to the last 4 days of my NZ trip laying on the beautiful north beaches and sailing. That was until the rain started which was on the bus to Paihia and continued until I arrived back in Auckland today. Mostly watched tv and slept. Part of traveling I am told. I leave for Austraila (Cairns) tomorrow and start my scuba lessons. I heard it is hot there. Hope to download pictures soon if possible and if I have time.

Dec. 10 -17, 2007. (AUSTRALIA,  Cairns, Great Barrier Reef diving)

I caught a flight to Cairns {pronounced cans} as soon as I arrived at the Sydney airport from Auckland. Cairns is a great town on the coast that has approx. 180,000 people but has over 3 million tourists each year. My purpose for coming here was to learn to scuba dive on the Great Barrier Reef but also hade a chance to visit the Tablelands which is also a World Heritage Site. We swam at the different waterfalls but the water was freezing.

December 17-20, 2007.   (AUSTRALIA,  Sydney)

I checked into the YHA Central Hostel which is without a question the nicest hostel that I have ever stayed in. While in Sydney I visited the famous Bondi Beach, the more beautiful Manly Beach, Sydney Opera House, Sydney Harbour Bridge, took a ferry from Sydney Harbour to Manly Beach and also visited the Blue Mountains which are home to the "Three Sisters" . I also visited a wildlife park, aquarium, and watched a boomerang throwing demonstration.

December 20 - 24, 2007

I decided to go to Melbourne for the last few days of my trip. Melbourne was a beautiful city but I did not find the sights to be overly exciting. I went to Federation Square, walked the Promenade along the river, walked through the beautiful city parks and went to St. Kilda Beach.

December 24, 2007.   (FLIGHT HOME, CHRISTMAS EVE)

I had to catch a flight early today to Sydney and then a connecting flight back to Auckland, New Zealand for my flight home. My flight from Auckland  to Los Angeles departed at 11 pm Christmas Eve. About an hour into the flight, the Crew wished us a Merry Christmas.  When I arrived in Los Angeles it was 1 pm, CHRISTMAS EVE !!  The miracle of the International Date Line. Left New Zealand 1 hour before Christmas and landed in New Orleans  6 hours before Christmas.  Lol.     GREAT TRIP. GLAD TO BE HOME  !!!!

CHAPTER 7.   CENTRAL AMERICA 

(Nicaragua, Costa Rica, Panama) May 10th - June 19th

May 10, 2008

I caught the early morning bus from BR to Houston which took only 4.5 hrs and was only $47. Cheaper than driving. The metro took me straight to the airport for $1 and I did not have to worry about extended parking.

The plane left Houston at 5:45 pm and arrived at Managua at 7:45 pm. A 3 hr flight but since Managua does not have daylight savings time the clock is rolled back an hour. Caught a taxi to my hostel and checked in.

May 11, 2008.  (NICARAGUA,  Big Corn Island)

My plan was to take the local bus to El Rama which is 6 hrs away, then boat to Bluefields and then the next day boat for 9 hrs to Big Corn Island. The ability to adapt to every possible situation is crucial is backpacking. The hostel owner informed me that there was a National Bus strike and no buses were leaving Managua in the foreseeable future. I took a cab back to the airport and caught a small plane directly to Big Corn Island. It was $160 that I did not anticipate spending but saved me 4 days travel time so in the end it was probably for the best. I met 2 girls from New Zealand , shared a cab and found a hostel together. Tomorrow I catch the early lancha (boat) to Little Corn Island which has the best beaches, hostels and diving on the 2nd longest coral reef after the Great Barrier Reef. 

May 12 - May 19, 2008.   (NICARAGUA,  Little Corn Island)

I caught the lancha early that morning for the 30 minute boat ride. After we arrived at the pier we were met by dive instructors and hostel owners trying to get our business. I walked 10 minutes to the other side of the island to find a room at the hostels on the ¨breezy¨ side of the island. I was very fortunate to get the last room at Elsa´s. No one was leaving the island because of the bus strike. The room had a double bed with private bathroom for $20 which did not make me extremely happy but luckily I was able to get a $10 single room with shared bath the next day. There are only 700 residents on the island. All restaurant and hostel menus consist of chicken, fish and shrimp. The prices range from $6 to $10 which is kinda high for Nicaragua. Since there are only limited groceries available and there is no permanent electricity, you must eat what the sea gives you. The chickens run wild in the jungle. The diving was great and lying on a beautiful Caribbean beach with only 6 to 8 other people on the entire beach is pretty close to perfect. Many people come for only a few days and stay 3 weeks. That is why the airline doesn't require you to give a return date. You just call up and make a reservation when you want to fly back to Managua.

May 19, 2008.   (NICARAGUA,  Granada)

We arrived at the airport in Managua from Big Corn at 9:30 am. Mary from Colorado and I ran into an English guy (Ollie) who was also going to Granada. He spoke Spanish so we decided to tag along with him to the bus station. Luckily the bus strike ended. We caught the collectivo (minivan which picks up passengers along the side of the road) to Granada for $1. The trip lasted only about 40 minutes. We found a great hostel (Hostel Oasis) which had dorm beds for $8 and included free internet and free coffee. A backpackers dream. There is also a swimming pool. We also found a great local cafeteria which had an incredible buffet and is used mostly by locals. Steak or chicken, rice, beans, fried plantains, salad and a diet coke was only $3.50.

May 20, 2008.  (NICARAGUA,  Granada)

Granada is the oldest city in the Americas. It was founded in 1524 by the conquistador Hernandez de Cordoba. Nicaragua's  currency is also the cordoba. Today I walked around Granada taking pictures. I went to the Iglesia de La Merced which was completed in 1539.  I climbed the bell tower for an incredible view of the city. Later I went to Parque Central where there was some kind of religous procession to the cathedral. I hope to go to one of the volcanoes or Laguna de Apoyo tomorrow depending on the rain. It is the rainy season or green season as the tourism officials call it.

May 21, 2008.   (NICARAGUA, Laguna de Apoyo)

This morning I went to the Granada open air market and then took a day trip to the Laguna de Apoyo which is a crater lake in a dormant volcano. The lake was very beautiful but the weather did not actually cooperate and it was cloudy most of the day. I went kayaking, swimming and spent the remainder of the day in a hammock. Somebody has got to do it. Today actually seemed a little more like vacation than traveling and I prefer traveling.

May 23, 2008.   (NICARAGUA,  Ferry from Granada to Isle of Ometepe)

 I took the ferry from San Jorge to the Isle of Ometepe which rises out of Lake Nicaragua from 2 volcanoes, Volcan Maderas and Volcan Conception. After arriving I took a taxi to Santo Domingo for what is the best beach on the island according to most. I stayed there one night and then went to Myogalpa to climb Volcan Conception.

May 25, 2008.   (NICARAGUA,  Climbing Volcan Conception)

Today I along with my guide and 4 people from Belgium and 2 Aussies climbed Volcan Conception up to the 1400 meter mark. The volcano is almost a perfect cone and is 1610 meters high with an almost vertical climb through the jungle up to the 100 meter mark. Then it is slippery volcanic rock which is mostly like loose gravel. The last 300 meters involved hanging onto rocks to keep from sliding back down. The volcano was active only 5 months ago so that added to the level of excitement and danger. We saw lots of howler monkeys on the way up through the jungle. At 1400 meters we wanted to continue but the clouds completely covered the top of the volcano and the guide said there were many crevices to fall in and since we could not see , we would have to go back down. That is when it got really scary. The descent was very slippery and everyone kept falling and then sliding for several feet before being able to catch onto a rock. The guide even caught one girl who started sliding and slid for almost 10 feet before he stopped here. Needless to say we went down very slowly. The climb was 9 hrs up and down and everyone was tired and bruised afterwards. I will post pictures hopefully tomorrow.

May 26, 2008.  (NICARAGUA,  San Juan del Sur)

I arrived in San Juan del Sur from the Isle of Ometepe today after a one hr ferry ride and 1 hr local bus from Rivas. Lots of surfers here, I think that is the main reason many come here.

May 27, 2008.   (NICARAGUA,  Maderas Beach)

 I took the early truck shuttle with 15 surfers to one of the best beaches to surf in Nicaragua. Another 25 joined a couple of hrs later. I watched for several hours and was amazed at the skill of many of these surfers. There was a crew videotaping what I assume were 2 Nicaraguan celebrity surfers. They were amazing. This seems to be the town to learn to surf. Private lessons are cheap and so are the accomodations.

May 30 - 31, 2008.   (COSTA RICA,  Playa Tamarindo)

I arrived at Playa Tamarindo yesterday and it was exactly as I was told, very Americanized and touristy. Luxury condos, pizza huts and souvenir shops. I survived the tropical storm that hit Costa Rica and Nicaragua. Luckily I had just left San Juan del Sur before the storm hit. I was in Liberia when the storm hit and there was 24 hrs of some of the hardest rain that I have ever seen.

Tomorrow I go on a catamaran sailing and snorkeling. It is my first expenditure splurge but I always did love sailing even though I have not had many opportunites.

June 1, 2008

The catamaran sailing and snorkeling trip was fun but unfortunately the total amount of sailing involved was very little. I think the cruise was geared more for drinking. Only on the way back did we even raise the sails. The captain did catch a Puffer fish which I got a few pictures.  

June 3, 2008.  (COSTA RICA , Monteverde)

Today is a great day, I am back in the mountains which always makes my happy. I love the beach but after about 3 days I am bored. Tomorrow I plan on doing an extreme canopy tour which has zip lines from 19 towers through the jungle, 1.5 miles of cable, canopy walkways and a tarzan swing. This will be another one of those änticipated¨splurges. Hopefully I will upload more pictures in a day or two and have more to say once I see everything there is to do. A couple of days here and then to the Arenal Volcano.

June 4, 2008.    (COSTA RICA,  Monteverde Cloud Forest)

I just got back from hiking in the Monteverde Cloud Forest. I did not get there until 12:00 and was scared that it would start raining because it usually does every afternoon here. But the sun was shining and the weather was great. The trails are well paved and most of the time you are just immersed in the jungle. There was one place where you could see out over the mountains and valleys in the surrounding areas which was spectacular. Will upload pictures when the internet is faster. The entire hike only lasted about 2 hrs. I finished just in time to catch the 2pm ¨chicken¨bus from the Reserve to Santa Elena which is only about 3 miles but very steep and bad. A ¨chicken¨ bus is former U.S school bus which is now being used to transport people in Central and South America. Nice to know that I am riding on a bus that is no longer considered safe in the U.S. lol Unfortunately for us the bus had a flat just 3 minutes into our trip and 16 people climbed into a minivan. I was the last one to get in and secured my seat on the floor, which is not a good thing on a bumpy road. Tomorrow at 8 am I go on the canopy zip line tour. Will update hopefully after the tour. 

Note: I rode 4 local buses on Monday and I was the only ¨gringo¨on the bus. I see lots of minivans with tourists go by but I thought at least some backpackers would be riding the local buses. I guess that Costa Rica has gotten so touristy that people come prepared to spend $40 a person to ride in the air conditioned minivan without having to stop every 5 minutes. Personally , I enjoy paying $2, stopping every 5 minutes (maybe not so much) and seeing all the locals interact. To me that is as much a part of the experience as seeing the beach or rainforest or volcanoes.

June 5, 2008.   (COSTA RICA,  Canopy  Zipline Tour)

The zipline tour lasted about 2 hrs and that is the most fun that I have had since I entered Costa Rica. That alone is reason enough to come here. I am not sure how high we were sometimes but a couple of times it had to be 200  ft. above the ground . It is hard to calculate because you are going tree to tree but when you go over the valley below who knows. Hopefully the pictures will give some idea. It wasn't scary, just exciting. You control the brakes by your hand but if you slow down too much it is a long way to pull yourself to the other end. Sometimes they tell you no braking all the way to the end. After the canopy and suspension bridge tour I went to the Butterfly Garden which is billed as the 3rd largest in the world.

Friday June 6, 2008.   (Monteverde to La Fortuna)

Today I make the journey to La Fortuna and the Arenal Volcan. There are 2 options getting there. (1) Jeep Boat Jeep which is highly recommended by all the hotels and tour companies as it is only 2.5 hrs long and a mere $25. Essentially you taxi to the Lake Arenal, take a boat for 30 minutes across the lake and then a taxi picks you up on the other side to take you to La Fortuna. (2) Bus up the mountain on bumpy, teeth rattling gravel road for only 24 miles but it takes 2 hrs to arrive at Tilaran. Then wait 2 hrs to catch the connecting bus for another 3.5 hrs. This option is $4. I choose option 2 for several reasons. Saving $21 is always a high priority when backpacking but riding a bus along narrow, high mountain roads seemed too exciting to pass on. I was well rewarded with incredible mountain views, milk cows grazing on the mountain sides, coffee plantations and teenagers flirting with classmates on their way to school. Some of the best sights are the simplest.

Friday June 7, 2008.  (COSTA RICA,  La Fortuna, Baldi Hot Springs and Arenal Volcano)

This afternoon I visited Baldi Hot Springs Resort which has hot springs fed by the volcano. There were many pools that had different temperatures along with swim up bars and waterside. You can stay there at the Resort for "big bucks" but I did a day trip for $30 which included an all you can eat buffet. Really enjoyed this.

Later I went on a lava flow tour at 8pm. It was raining and the guide said that was the best time to see the lava flow down the Arenal Volcano  because the rain dissipates the clouds. I could not believe the volcano when we got there. We were 1.5 to 2 miles away from the volcano but the lava was flowing down it in 5 separate rivers of lava. It was amazing. The pictures arent great because of the darkness. I was the only one of the 10 tourists who even got a picture of any sort that showed the lava flow.

June 8-10, 2008 (COSTA RICA,  Manuel Antonio)

I caught a shuttle from La Fortuna to Quepos because it was the only direct way to get there. At $35 for the four hr trip it was painful to part with the money. The minivan had 4 other people in it from Dallas, Texas, a husband and wife and their 2 young children for 4 hours. After being dropped off in Quepos, I still needed to get to my hostel in Manuel Antonio, only a few miles away. I asked the taxi drivers how much and decided $5 was too much so I started walking. Unfortunately  to get to my Hostel you must walk UP and DOWN several miles. A little over an hour later and near total exhaustion I arrived. Several buses had passed me while I was walking and I later  found out it was only 25 cents to ride those buses all the way from Quepos to Manuel Antonio Park and beach with stops allowed anywhere. Oh well, sure I needed the exercise.

June 11, 2008 (COSTA RICA,  Quepos,  Wide Mouth Frog Hostel)

Today I moved from the Hostel Vista Serena, which had an incredible sunset as the name refers, down the mountain 2 miles to Quepos. I have a 5 am bus to San Isidro and hopefully after one transfer and 9 hrs on the bus I will be in David, Panama. Yesterday I went to the Manuel Antonio Park and hiked through the trails. There were monkeys everywhere and incredible beaches. Lots of pictures later.

June 12-14, 2008.   (PANAMA,  Boquette)

Decided to continue to Boquette from David. I spent a couple of days there after traveling all day by bus from Quepos. Boquette is a coffee producing area with a 3500 meter volcano close by. I had planned on climbing it but it rained for 2 days and there was no end in sight. You are supposed to be able to see the Carribean and the Pacific at the same time if there is good weather. I was also unable to visit the coffee plantations. Another reason to come back and visit again.

June 14-18, 2008.   (PANAMA,  Bocas del Toro)

Bocas del Toro is an island on the Carribean coast and the number one tourist destination in Panama. You first have to take a water taxi to the island which takes about 45 minutes. I spent 5 days here relaxing on the beach. There is a very Jamaican vibe on the Carribean coast in Central America. While the beaches at Bocas del Toro were not as beautiful as the nearby island, Bastimentas, it was definitely party central for the young college students.

A 15 minute boat ride from Bocas takes you to the Isle of Bastimentas, the home of the most beautiful beaches in the area. The walk to the beach was 30 minutes through the jungle unless it was raining which it was the first day, then it is an hour of slipping and sliding.  I spent 3 days here including going on a tour to watch the leatherback turtles nest on the beach at night. It was amazing. We left the hostel at 9:30 pm for the 40 minute boat ride to the other side of the island. We then sat on the beach until the guides located some of the nesting turtles. We were not able to use flashlights or flashes on our cameras but the moon was full and we had excellent light on the beach. We watched the leatherback turtle lay over 50 eggs in the hole it had dug. We were only 1 to 2 ft. away from the turtle. One of the park rangers put a flashlight on the back of the turtle so we could watch the egg laying. Afterwards, the turtle covered the eggs and returned to the ocean. Truly, one of those special moments. We got back to the hostel at 3 am. exhausted.

June 18, 2008.  (FLIGHT TO SAN JOSE)

I decided to make one last splurge and bought an airline ticket from Bocas del Toro to San Jose, Costa Rica.  It saved me 13 hrs of traveling on the bus. After arriving at San Jose I shared a cab with someone from Seattle and drove the short distance (2 miles) to Alejuela. Alejuela is Costa Ricas second largest city and closest to the international airport. It is much safier and nicer than San Jose. The bus ride to the airport tomorrow will only be 75 cents rather than the $15 a taxi would charge to airport from San Jose. The town has a beautiful central park lined with Mangrove trees and brick streets.

June 19, 2008.  (Going Home)

I fly out of San Jose at 2:55 pm and will arrive in NO at 10:23 pm after changing planes in Houston. Beau is going to pick me up and hopefully I will see everyone soon. Time to rest up from the trip, visit family and plan the next adventure.

CHAPTER 8.   CHINA 

September 3rd and 4th, 2008

I landed in Beijing around 2 pm on September 3rd. The trip involved avoiding evacuation traffic from south Louisiana while on my way to Houston, a 6:30 am flight from Houston to Newark which was 3.5 hrs long, a 1 hr change of planes in Newark, a 13 hr flight from Newark direct to Beijing and which included flying directly over the North Pole. But considering that it was a free trip using my air miles, it was a great trip.

I was very exhausted since I am unable to sleep on the plane. About 9 pm I finally gave up and went to bed. I heard several people in the dorm getting up and leaving the room and looked at my clock and it was 11:00. How could I have slept so long??? I jumped up, took a shower, changed clothes and headed down stairs. It seemed dark to be 11:30 am and it was. It seems I had only slept 2 hrs and the people in the dorm were going out drinking. This is not the last stupid thing I will do on this trip but may be the last I share. We'll see.

I got up at 7 am. Seriously this time. I went to Behai Park, Tiananmen Square and the Forbidden City. I have lots of pictures which I will upload later tonight.

These are a few pictures of my hostel, Sitting on City Walls Courtyard House, which is in a hutong. A hutong is a small alleyway which houses many of Beijing's older residents.

Hope everyone is doing fine after Hurricane Gustav. Also, email every now and then so I will know what is going on.

10 minutes from the hostel are 2 beautiful parks, Jingshan Park and Beshai Park. A couple of men in Beshai Park had very small kites which resembled in looks and size, a butterfly and a dragonfly. I really enjoyed watching different groups exercising by dancing or Tai Chi.

After lunch I took the city bus (14 cents to most places in the area) to Tianenman Square. The square is approximately 800 acres. There were many signs touting the Paraolympics which start Saturday for physically challenged athletes. There are supposed to be 4000 athletes worldwide attending. Mao's tomb closed at 12:30 but I did not plan on going anyway. Several backpackers at the hostel said it was not a big deal. I personally don't like the idea of staring at an embalmed body. 

I quickly moved through the square to the entrance of the Forbidden City. Before entering I was approached by two young girls who were art students and wanted me to look at their work in the adjoining building and which was FREE. I looked at all the art which was very beautiful and they told me that they would make me a calligraphy drawing of my name and something about long life and prosperity and that it was FREE. Then they told me that the FREE calligraphy would look beautiful in a silk frame. Then I told them what I always say, " There is no room in my backpack" and quickly left without my FREE calligraphy.

September 5, 2008.   (CHINA,  Summer Palace)

Today I took a couple of buses to the Summer Palace about 20 km outside of Beijing. The Summer Palace consists of an enormous lake surrounded by bridges, pagodas, temples and living quarters for the summer months when Beijing would get too hot. There is a great path around the lake and it took almost 3 hours to walk around it.

September 6, 2008.   (CHINA, Great Wall of China, train to Xian)

I got up early this morning (6 am) and went with a small tour group to Jinshanling to walk the Great Wall for 10 km (6.2 miles). It doesn't sound like very far until you see the pictures of the walls going up and down the mountains. When we first got there our guide said that the best thing to do would be take the cable car up to the first tower at the top of the mountain to save 40 minutes of walking. Of course, I then preceded to ask him if it was extra and he said only 40 yuan (about $6) and of course I quickly started up the path walking to the top of the mountain.

About 15 took the cable car and 4 of us walked. Much to my surprise I beat everyone is our group who took the cable car up to the top of the mountain.

The walk was very difficult at time but this was an area 3 hrs out of Beijing which shows the wall in its deteriorating state and others which have been repaired as a conservation effort. There are also very few people hiking this far out. Most go close to Beijing at Badaling and there are actually thousands on the wall at the same time. The entire hike of the wall took about 3.5 hrs. At the end you had an option to use a zip line to go across the river and save another 30 minutes walking. 40 Yuan. You KNOW what I did. lol I probably would have done it had I not done the zip line canopy tour a few months ago in Costa Rica.

The crowds from the paralympics, athletes and spectators, have made finding rooms impossible. I intentionally waited for the Olympics to end to travel to China but did not know about the Paralympics. Since I had no hostel room for Saturday night, after the walk I went to the train station to catch the overnight train to Xian to see the Terracotta Warriors. Unfortunately since I had not planned the train ride earlier there were no sleeper cars for the 9 pm to 8:40 am train ride. So I sat in a seat for 11 or so hours. But I had a few limited English conversations through the night and like always, traveling is just great fun and you make the best of every situation.

September 7, 2018.   (CHINA, Xian)

The hostel is really great. Dorms rooms are $3.00 a night and you get a free beer each night and free internet. It seems as though the room is free with the freebies. Mostly English travelers here right now. The hostel has a bar in the basement, a restaurant, travel agency and two outdoor courtyards.

The City Walls are in a rectangle around the old city center and total 14 km in length. I walked from the north gate to the south gate or about 1/2 way. The walls are 12 meters wide at the top.

The Muslim Quarter is really exciting at night with everyone cooking "meat on a stick" and other things which I have no idea what they are. 

September 8, 2008.  (CHINA,  Terracotta Warriors)

This morning I went to visit the site of the Terracotta Warriors. It was quite impressive with approximately 1200 of the estimated 8000 warriors having been unearthed so far. There are also many terracotta horses. It is said that every warrior has a different face and were modeled after the emperors soldiers. They were built and placed in his tomb to guard him in the afterlife.

A girl from Finland convinced me and several other backpackers from England and France to play a drinking game that only she knew. Bad idea, one of the backpackers missed his flight the next day. Luckily I went to bed at 1 am and did not stay up with the others who were up till 5 am.

There are fewer English speaking Chinese than I expected. Almost no one speaks any English except at the hostels, tourist attractions and McDonald's. Even at KFC they shove the English menu in front of you and wait for you to point.    

September 12th to 13th, 2008

Upon arrival at the train station I was overwhelmed.  A big board with hundreds of trains arriving and departing and only in Chinese.  While looking confused, I was approached by a couple of university students going home on the National Holiday. They both spoke pretty good English and were eager to practice. I agreed if they would help me get my train ticket. Worked out great for both sides.

This was to be my first experience overnight on the train in a hard sleeper car. The three alternatives that you have when traveling on the train are soft sleeper, hard sleeper and hard seat. My trip from Beijing to Xi'an for 11 hrs (9pm til 8am) was a hard seat. Fell asleep once and fell into the aisle much to the amusement of the Chinese on the train. Don't do this for more than 6 hrs.

I had an idea what the hard sleeper would be like. 10 compartments in the car with six beds in each compartment. The compartments have no doors so that everyone walking down the hall can see each person. I was fortunate enough to have gotten a bottom bunk as nobody wants a top bunk, climbing in and out with the ceiling staring at you all the time.

When I got to my bunk, across from me were two elderly Chinese (of course) gentlemen talking and eating fruit. I quickly realized that one of these men was going to have to climb up to the 2nd or 3rd bunk. So I offered my bottom bunk for their 2nd level bunk, mostly by pointing and gestures. He was very appreciative. Though it would have been interesting to see how well he did climbing up into that bunk. Probably would have done better than I did for the next 16 hrs. Hoping Karma will remember this.

The hard sleeper is exactly as it sounds. Kinda reminds me of a metal ironing board with that thin pad covering it. But I saved an extra $12 by not getting the soft sleeper. As all backpackers know, the more money saved, the more you can travel.

September 14, 2008.  (CHINA, Chengdu, Giant Panda Research and Breeding Center)

This morning I went to see the Giant Pandas. We left early and got to the Center at 8:30 am because pandas just eat and sleep, kinda like babies, and after 10:30 am you won't see much action. The pandas were great fun to watch even though they mostly just eat. I planned on having a picture with a baby panda but when I found out they had raised the price to $175 and that the "baby" pandas were 1 1/2 years old. I elected to go with the 2 1/2 yr old panda which is probably 50 pounds heavier and not as cute but only $135.  No brainer. Only one person out of 50 had their picture taken with the "baby" .

Monday I take the overnight train by hard sleeper for 25 hrs to Guillen. I am skipping the 3 Gorges Yangtze river trip because of info I received that it is no longer what it used to be due to the river rising by such a large amount. Will use that money to try and get to Tibet if I can find the right deal.

 Monday,  September 15, 2008

I leave on the overnight train from Chengdu to Guilin at 17:58 this afternoon and will arrive around 21:00 for a total of about 25 hrs in a hard sleeper car. Preparation must be made first which involves going to McDonald's for their cheap lunch meal and then buying 3 cheeseburgers ($1.25 each) for supper and meals for the next day. I also take several moon pie cakes which are only 14 cents each. The train offers hot meals which are on a rolling server which comes down the aisles. I have not recognized any of the food yet so I will stick with cold hamburgers until I get a little more courage. 

Each compartment does have a tv which shows old kung fu movies that usually have Jackie Chan or Jet Li when they were in their early 20's. I think I have already blogged this but here it is again.

When I booked my train ticket I somehow ended my destination in Liuzhou instead of Guilin so I have to find a way to continue on the train for another 3 hrs without getting off the train. I got the people in the hostel to write down in Chinese that I would like to continue to Guilin and purchase an additonal ticket. We will see what happens.

I know that sometimes it always seems to be about how cheaply one can travel and how little one can spend, and it is. But that is the vehicle that allows backpackers to travel more frequently to more places and for longer.

I laughed at an English couple last night. He mentioned that he was thinking of getting a beer to which she quickly said that then she could get an ice cream. When I laughed he said that she was in charge of the finances and that there was always compromise on how they spent the money. They were traveling for 1 year.

September 17, 2008

I spent 5 hrs walking around the Seven Star Park in Guilin by the Li River. I really enjoyed the underground caves which were lit up by colorful lights to better illuminate the stalactites and stalagmites.

While still in Seven Star Park I walked up to the top of the karst peak to get a good view of the city. On the way down I found a path that looked as though it has seldom been traveled and of course that is my favorite path. As I walked I started hearing sounds coming from the trees. Mostly a rustling of the branches. The more I walked the louder the sounds got and the more frequent. Then I saw a monkey up in the top of one the trees and I thought "how cute". Then there were a couple of monkeys that I noticed in another tree and I thought how fortunate I was to have run into some monkeys. Then the monkeys started to converge on me. The next thing I knew there were monkeys everywhere and they meant business. They were invading my personal space all of a sudden and I was getting a little uncomfortable. One large monkey was only a few feet from me staring me down.

Then I remembered that I had read somewhere that they were expecting food and that you were supposed to thrust your palms into the air showing that you had no food and start walking. It seemed to work fine and they no longer pursue you.

There is a Chinese saying, " One monkey can halt the path of a thousand soldiers." Now I understand what they meant. lol

Thursday September 18th, 2008.  (CHINA, Longii Terraces )

I went on a tour to see the Longji Terraces which is 100 km (62 miles) from Guilin. The photographs that I have seen on postcards and posters are unbelievably beautiful. My pictures in no way do them justice and I recommend anyone to google Longji Terraces to see some truly spectacular pictures. I also saw some postcards of the rice terraces with snow on them in the winter which was beautiful. Did not buy the postcards though, no money for postcards and no room in backpack. lol

While most of us waked up to the top of the terraces, some elected to be carrier at a cost of about 14 cents a pound. 200 pounds, 28 dollars. Obviously some people are in really bad shape or have too much money or a combination of the two. LOL

Time to catch the bus to Yangshou and cruise the Li River with its beautiful karst peaks.

September 19, 2008.  (CHINA, Li River, Evading River Police on Li River Boat Tour)

This tale began shortly after arriving in Yangshou. I walked down to the tourist area by the Li River just to see what kind of river tour specials there were. It was about 3 pm.

I initially planned on during the Li River Cruise from Guilin to Yangshou to see the karst peaks along the river. The prices ranged from 325 yuan ($47) for the Chinese boat to 500 yuan ($71) for a six hour cruise. I had googled cheap Li River Cruise and got a blog that suggested going to Yangshou and then hiring a fisherman in a bamboo boat to take you up river 3 hrs and get the same experience for 100 to 150 yuan. That is what I did.

Ok, it is now 3 pm and a lady tells me that they have a bamboo boat for only 150 yuan if we leave now since I am by myself. I get her to drop the price to 120 and we go down to the river where I see this bamboo boat with 3 benches and an umbrella covering. It has a small motor to help it get back upstream. The lady tour guide and I had agreed on the destination but there were a few points which I did not understand completely such as why we were to make an initial 10 minute stop and how I was getting back.

After about 30 minutes of cruising down the river she pointed that we would now be making that 10 minute stop. After she got out of the boat she motioned for me to follow. When I asked why she pointed down river and said police. That is when I remembered reading somewhere that it is illegal for fisherman to take passengers up and down the Li River. That is why everyone is on the crowded tour boats.

I smiled and off we went down some dirt path. Our 10 minute path turned into 20 minutes and then finally we ended back up at the river bank. She looked for our boat and the fisherman but he was nowhere in sight. All of a sudden she came back up the bank and said the police boat was coming towards us. She got on her cell phone and called the fisherman (not the first time they have done this obviously) and off we went down another path to another location. We came upon a boy on a motorcycle and she talked him into taking us to the other river bank further down the river. The sight of the boy, me and the woman tour guide on that little motorcycle going down an old run down concrete path had to be something to behold.

Finally after an hour we were reunited with the boat once again. We cruised for another 2 hrs down the Li River and the scenery was stunning. We passed several large cruise boats that were loaded to the brim and they all stared at me in amazement. We reached the local village, I took a few pictures and we headed back upstream.

Now is when the getting back part started to make sense. After 45 minutes upstream we pulled over to another village and she said something about bus and pointed for me to get off with her. When I looked puzzled, she said "Police". Enjoying the first police evasion consisting of walking through rice paddies and riding threesome on a motorcycle was fun but a bus was sounding pretty nice right now.

To the bus we went and 45 minutes later I was at my hostel. What a Great Day. Also, got that Toilet Thing Going On Too. LOL see previous blog if you dont know what I am talking about.

The Comorants (duck-like) in the first 2 pictures are trained by the fishermen. They tie a rope to them including a thin rope around their neck so they can not swallow the fish they catch when the dive underwater. I have seen underwater footage on the Travel Channel showing them swimming underwater and catching fish.

Saturday, September 20, 2008.   (CHINA, Trekking up the Li River

I finally got back into my element today, trekking. I got up early and caught the 6:30 am bus to begin my trek up the Li River about 45 minutes from Yangshou. The trek to Yangdi is 24 km (15 miles) and ended up taking me about 4 hrs. I only got lost twice. All the signs along the river paths are in Chinese and whenever the paths forked, you didn't know whether the sign said Li River Trek or All Trespassers will be Shot. Mostly just stayed close as possible to the river. With temperatures hitting about 95, this was probably one of my smartest moves but had fun anyway. I took plenty of water and Oreos, my own personal emergency kit.

I was able to witness the large cruise ships which I decided not to take from Guilin to Yangshou. At one point there were 10 ships lined up behind each other cruising down the Li River loaded with passengers. Not my idea of traveling. Maybe others though. I caught the bus back from Yangdi.

September 21st and 22nd, 2008.   (CHINA, Dali)

Took the 1 1/2 hr bus to Guilin, then took 18 hr overnight train to Kunming, walked across the street and took 6 hr bus to Dali. I specifically went to Dali because word on the street was that there was cheap trips to Tibet. No Tibet trips in Dali I quickly found out. Old Towne was beautiful but very touristy. Go to Lijang tomorrow.

September 23, 2008.   (CHINA, Lijang)

One of the most beautiful cities I visited in China.
Lijang's Old Towne was even more beautiful than Dali and even more touristy. No Tibet travel permits here either. I leave tomorrow to hike Tiger Leaping Gorge which I am sure will be one of the highlights of my trip so far. The first 2 pictures were taken very early in the morning. The streets are packed with tourists most of the day and night.

September 24-26, 2008.  (CHINA, Tiger Leaping Gorge)

 I caught the first bus to Quiatou (chow toe) which is the beginning of the trek. I arrived at noon and headed out for the 5-6 hr uphill trek which ascends over 900 meters. It was very hot and I soon began to realize that I had not been in the mountains since last November in New Zealand. Many tourist were riding horses with guides up the mountain. A local with a horse kept following me up the mountain asking every five minutes if I wanted to ride the horse. He just knew I would not make it but I disappointed him. Most of the trip lies along a narrow ridge which follows the river giving great views of the gorge. The path is narrow enough that you do not dare lose your concentration. There are no guardrails along the path. I spent the night at the Tea Hoyse (yes that is how they spelled tea house). I woke up early the next morning and left before it began getting too hot. The second days trek was mostly downhill and involved walking under one waterfall. The scenery was truly spectacular.

September 26,  2008   (CHINA, Shangri La)

After Tiger Leaping Gorge I caught the minivan for the 3 hr trip to Shangri La (3200 meters high). Most tourists do not come this far up and this is as close as you can get to Tibet without actually being there. Most people here are Tibetan. One of my favorite things in Shangri La was that the old and young dance in the city square for 2-3 hrs every night. It is not a performance but done for pure enjoyment. The pictures also include the countryside on the way to Shangri La , Old Towne, a monastery with the Golden Prayer Wheel and an art cafe.

Sunday September 27, 2007. (CHINA, Kunming)

I just finished watching the LSU victory over Miss. State virtue of the internet even though it was 10 am Sunday here. I arrived in Kunming at 7 am after a 14 hr sleeper bus from Shangri La. This was my first sleeper bus experience and not the most fun that I have had in China. The bus is lined with upper and lower beds. What I did not know was that in the back is one giant bed which is for 5 people. Guess who got the middle space in the giant bed. If I had known better I would have requested a single bed. The entire night is made up of jockeying for position and waiting for the next bathroom break, since there is no bathroom on the bus.

I seem to be the only foreigner on most buses and most trains in China. I know visas have been hard to get for some. I was walking around the bus on our first break when a little boy about eight asked me what I was doing on the bus. I quickly realized that most travelers have their own buses and transportation and that the Chinese almost never have contact with foreigners on the local buses. Most of the Chinese that know any English will try and practice it with me when they can. Even walking down the street people will start up a conversation just to hear English.

After arriving, I quickly went and rented a dorm room at a hostel. My next sleeper bus to Luang Prabang, Laos leaves at 6:30 pm today and will last for 32 hrs. Yes, I requested a single bed. The hostel gives me a chance to shower and rest even though it will be shortlived.

The Sleeper Bus from Kunming to Luang Prabang, Laos was once again one of the tests that backpackers endure to travel cheaply. Airfare from Kunming was $550 and 1.5 hrs and the sleeper bus was $42 and 32 hrs.

I checked out of my room and went to the bus station to catch the sleeper bus at 6:30 pm. I was told that the bus had been canceled. With very little explanation I was told to come back tomorrow. When I insisted on a new ticket she marked out the 28th and put 29th in pen.

I went back and rechecked into my room which I had already paid for but had just stayed in for 8 hrs. Luckily I was not charged again. The next day I checked out at noon and went to the internet cafe and spent 4 hrs on the computer to waste time. 4 hrs was only $1.00

Tomorrow a new country and new experiences.

"Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things you didn't do than by the things you did. "
Mark Twain

September 28-30, 2008.  (CHINA, Kunming to Luang Prabang, Laos, sleeper bus)

"The traveler must be born again in the road and earn his passport from the elements."
Henry David Thoreau


I arrived at the bus station 2 hrs early to make sure there were no cancellatons. I was shown to the bus and went in to check out my SINGLE bed. Bed Number 21 was on the back row with 4 other people just like before. I was not happy and let the bus driver know it. I went back to the ticket office and complained with the help of somone who spoke a little English. He went with me back to the bus driver and finally, he assigned me a single bed in the front of the bus. I think it was the backup drivers bed. He was not happy but when I started asking for a refund he knew that he had to find a solution.

The positives are that the bed is the most comfortable bed that I have slept in since I left, there was great airconditioning and Chinese kung fu movies. Arriving at the Laos border was another one of those moments that you wish you were back home. Organized chaos is the only way to describe it. One of those oxymoron that is true. Police trying to maintain crowd control but having very little luck with the 300 people trying to get to 3 windows. After over 1 hr in line and seemingly losing ground, a Chinese woman yelled at the policeman and pointed at me and he allowed me to come through.

When I arrived in Luang Prabang I needed to take a tuk (motorcycle taxi) to the Old Towne. I agreed to split the cost with a couple from Shanghai and Beijing who spoke excellent English. When I told them that I was from Louisiana they looked shocked because he said they thought only black people lived in LA. When I asked why he thought that and I am not making this up. He said that when Katrina hit NO that the only people they saw on CNN were black people. Amazing the perspective that other people have with only limited exposure to the outside world.

I found a great place to stay which is a private room with a balcony overlooking the Nam River and only 2 blocks from the Mekong River for $6. There are really no hostels here.

CHAPTER 9.   SOUTHEAST ASIA (Laos, Thailand, Myanmar,  Cambodia, Malaysia,  Hong Kong)  

September 30 - December 18th

September 30, 2008.   LAOS, Luang Prabang 

This is by far my favorite place that I have visited so far. There are great similarities also to Natchez. The town has about 20,000 people, is on the Mekong River and is a very old town with incredible French architecture. Laos used to be a French colony and many people speak French in town. There are many tourists in Old Town but it doesn't seem too crowded. I got up at 5:30 am to watch the monk procession. The monks and there were hundreds of them, walk down the street at 6 am with their large bowls and the locals line up on the sidewalk and put rice mostly but also money and other things as gifts to the monks. Whatever the monks do not use they give to the poor. This happens every morning.

October 1, 2008.  LAOS, Luang Prabang (Kuang Si Waterfall) 

Today, a group of English, one from Norway and myself went in a tuk tuk about 24 km to the Kuang Si Waterfall. It was a blast. Very high and beautiful waterfall. We climbed to the top of the waterfall and waded out to the edge and took pictures. The 2nd picture is the top of the waterfall and the 3rd was taken leaning over the edge. Then we went downstream and went swimming which included jumping out of a tree into the falls. Afterwards I was sitting next to a couple and they looked American so I asked where they were from and he said Alabama. I was in shock. To run into an American is almost unheard of and for them to be from one of LSU's biggest rivals is another.We both briefly mentioned our upcoming game and then decided to drop it. There were also a lot of small Asian bears that were in several enclosures near the waterfall.

October 2, 2008.  LAOS,  (Small waterfall, Big elephants), Luang Prabang

I went to the second of two waterfalls outside of Luang Prabang. The waterfalls were much smaller than the previous one but more picturesque. An added benefit was that they bathe the elephants which they hire out for rides in the waterfalls in the evenings.

October 4-7th, 2008.  LAOS, Slow boat for 2 days, LAOS TO THAILAND

Took the slow boat up the Mekong River to Thailand. The current was really strong and the boat kept switching sides of the river to find the least amount of current. There were only 5 tourist on the boat going upstream while boats going downstream were loaded with tourists. Seems we were doing the route counterclockwise. Better for us. After 9 hrs on the boat the first day we stopped in a small village and spent the night. The river is full of rocks in the middle and you do not want to be traveling on it at night. The next day was 8 hrs but it is a slow peaceful journey and you can watch the many people fishing on the banks of the river with nets. Arrive in Huay Xai which is till on the Lao side at 6 pm just 30 minutes after the ferry to Thailand closes. Seems to be timed that away. So another night in Laos.

October 8, 2008.  THAILAND, Mai Sai

Arrived in Mai Sai after a long day of bus rides. It is on the border with Myanamar and my hope is to go to Myanmar and then travel to Bagan and see the deserted 4400 temples in the valley.

October 9th and 10th, 2008.  MYANMAR (Burma) ,  Police State

I went to the border. What a hassle. I had to provide them with 3 pictures of myself and let them keep my passport. They issued a temporary passport and tried to get me to just see the border town of Tachilek and then return to Thailand. When I told them I wanted to go to Bagan they said no. They issued a 14 day visa but there were only 2 towns I could visit with 150 miles. So I went to Chaing Tong. The immigration office marked my temporary visa with the location and then sold me a bus ticket to that location. I had to give the bus driver my papers which he kept until we arrived. I was given seat No. 2 behind the bus driver. The next bus my seat was also No. 2. Starting to see a pattern. That must be the tourist seat.

Upon arrival at Chaing Kong, I tried to get a room at what seemed reasonably priced hotels. At each place I was told they were full when I am pretty sure they weren't. Then I found a hotel after a few recommendations that seemed empty but nice. It is now my belief these are government (military dictatorship) owned hotels just for tourists. The room was $20 a night which is outrageous but there were no other options. Plus the hotels refused to take Myanamar money and only wanted US currency. How bizarre. I was able to go out at night, eat in the local market and have a beer with some local men who were watching what looked like karoake on television and drinking whiskey. The women singing were wearing skirts about knee length but the camera kept zooming in on the legs and ankles and the men would laugh and holler. I guess it was kinda like Myanamar porn. lol

The next morning I decided to go back to Thailand based on my limited ability to travel. When I went to check out they did not have my temporary visa. With almost no English spoken here they finally went to Immigration to get my papers which had been sent there. Don't know why. They asked me where I wanted to go next and marked it again on my papers and drove me to the bus station. They waited while I bought a ticket. 4 roadblocks and 5 hrs later I was at the Thai border at 5:15 pm which closes at 5:30. I cleared Myanamar, got my passport and head to Thailand immigration. As I got to the window I realized I did not complete my departure card. I did that and looked up and the window was closed. Not sure what happens when you are on the bridge between countries and both are closed especially when both sides have men with automatic weapons watching the crossings.

A man saw me and radioed someone who opened up and let me through. Finally back in Thailand.

October 10-12th, 2008.  THAILAND, Mae Hongson,  Day Market

A beautiful 4 hr bus ride up and down the mountains made the bus ride to Mae Hong Son one of my favorite bus rides so far. I found a hotel, since southeast asia has very few hostels, from a flyer handed out by someone at the bus station. A private room with shared bath for a little over $4. There is also free internet so I will try and upload pictures tomorrow. I have been doing the private room for about 10 days now because of the limited options. But most are between 4-6 dollars with a private bath usually.

The hotel has incredible views of the lake and temple. It is also convenient to everything. May stay here a few days and recharge. Busing and changing locations frequently is tiresome and also is a major expense.

I took these pictures in the day market. The first is for Madison, my granddaughter,  because I knew she would love the cute bunnies. The next one is fried insects which you could sample if you wanted. There were crickets, roaches, grub worms and a few I did not recognize. I passed on the sampling. Thought Kade, my grandson,  would get a kick out of it.

October 13, 2008

I came here to see the old city because it was Thailand's first capital. I visited the old city today and the ruins were spectacular. It is said that much is lost due to the fact that we do not perceive the religious significance of this area and I am sure that is true. I leave tomorrow for Bangkok but may just stay the night and head to Cambodia. I will be coming back through Bangkok 2 more times on my trip. Once passing through to south Thailand and once to fly to Hong Kong for my return.

Wednesday October 15, 2008

After 5 hrs on the worst road that I have ever been on I finally arrived in Siem Reap. It is the hub for everything that is Angkor Wat which is called the 8th Wonder of the World by some. I hope to stay here for a few days and recharge, finally, and make plans to visit Angkor Wat. There are 1 day, 3 day and week long admission tickets. The area is immense with so many different temples to see but I think that after a few of the biggest ones including Angkor Wat I will have seen enough. Seeing Angkor Wat is up there almost as much as seeing the Great Wall.

The first picture is of a "spirit house" which is usually located in front of many businesses and houses and come in many shapes, sizes and colors. They are supposed to be a home for friendly spirits who will bestow blessings on them and remain outside the house in comfort. Many times food, water and flowers are left on the houses for the spirits.

 October 18, 2008.  CAMBODIA, Angkor Wat

The temples of Angkor Wat are numerous and many people spend an entire week exploring them. I decided to concentrate on the Big 3 which are Angkor Wat, Ta Prohm and Bayon.

I took a tuk-tuk which I hired the previous day and set out at 5 am. It was only a 15 minute ride and it was still dark when we arrive at Angkor Wat with about 75 other tourists waiting for the sun to come up. Only it was overcast and a light mist was falling. I have been anticipating this moment my entire trip as it is billed by some as the 8th Wonder of the World. I guess that is because it did not make the New 7 Wonders of the World list last year.

Angkor Wat is the largest religious building in the world and it is truly a sight to see but somehow it did not have that "WOW" factor. Maybe it was the rain, maybe it was because it is 5 am. or maybe I had just imagined how it would be for so long. I have seen postcards of Angkor Wat as the sun is coming up behind it and that is what I wanted. Unfortunately this is the moonsoon (2 hrs of hard rain every day and some rain the rest) season. I really hope that it is not because I have seen so much in the last 3 years I expect too much. On the other hand, everything can't be Machu Picchu at sunrise or your first time to see Mount Everest up close and personal. But it was really nice. lol

Wednesday October 22, 2008

After a brief couple of days in Bangkok to get new visa pages in my passport, I finally arrived in Phuket which is the No. 1 tourism area in Thailand. On my way to the 5 am bus this morning I encountered what I think was a big rottweiler which somehow got out of the fence which enclosed it. Dogs have been a problem more than once on this trip and within a second my backpack was off my back and I started swinging it in defense. I slowly crossed the sidewalk and the transformer above the dog exploded and sparks went everywhere. Somehow I felt a little relieved that the dog had made me change my direction, but not too much. The dog went his way and I went mine. 7 hrs later I am in Phuket hoping for a little peace and quiet.

October 23, 2008

Today was another splurge when I spent $60 on a day trip to the Phi Phi Islands which are known as incredibly beautiful and location to Leonardo DiCaprio's "The Beach". The trip is normally $90 for the speed boat to the islands and food and drink but I was able to secure a large discount with a little persuasion. lol I quickly boarded the large speed boat which holds 40 passengers and secured a seat in the front so I could see the islands as we approached. Great idea, as long as it doesn't rain. It rained for about 1.5 hrs on the way to the islands and on the first beach. But the eight of us in front just laughed after a while because you can only get so wet.

The first island was Phi Phi Lae Island which was the location for "The Beach". I am not sure how well the pictures will turn out because it was raining pretty hard when we were there. The island is a National Park and has no tourist accomodations or businesses, just beach. We were there only 35 minutes and I would have liked to have stayed longer and visited the hidden cove which was also in the movie. The next beach we visited was Monkey Island and there were monkeys everywhere on the beach. Probably 40-50 monkeys being feed fruit by the tourists. One monkey, with gnashing teeth, chased a tourist into the ocean. The guide said monkeys will occassionally bite when provoked. We witnessed several serious monkey brawls. lol We next went to a beach for some fantastic snorkeling with great visibility and a large variety of fish.

We next went to Phi Phi Don which has about 700 inhabitants and very little inexpensive accomodations. We had a large buffet lunch which was part of the tour and then spent an hour on the beach. One more island stop to lay on the beach again for an hour and back home.

Will make some financial sacrifices over the next week to justify the expense but it was a very good day.

October 25-November 10th, 2008

I just moved from Phuket town to Karon Beach for 2 weeks just to finally rest up from traveling and hopefully not spend much money. I got lost looking for the one hostel on the beach and luckily a bar owner told me of a hostel that was opening up today and that I would be her first client. The room only has 3 beds compared to the 10 bed dorm I was looking for and is only $4.50 a night. I have the room to myself and hopefully it will stay that away. lol The room is only 1 minute from the beach so I hope to get a little sun. Moonsoon season ends at the end of October. It has been raining most of the day today but hopefully things will clear. May not hear much on blog since there will not be anything to blog about until I move next.

 Tuesday November 11, 2008.   MALAYSIA, Georgetown

I just arrive in Georgetown after 19 hrs of traveling. I found a wonderful guesthouse (S & D Guesthouse) which is the newest in town. A private room for only $6 a night makes this a very good day.

November 13-15th, 2008.   MALAYSIA, Palau Langkawi

I took the fast boat to the island of Palau Langkawi which is about 2.5 hrs from Georgetown. The island is beautiful but the beaches are nowhere near the quality of Thailand's beaches. Also, there are essentially almost no waves. It seems like a lake but the sand is pure white and the Andaman Sea is a beautiful turquoise. I will try and post pictures soon. Saturday I will be able to return to Thailand where I will go to the island of Koh Lanta. At this point I will not have to leave Thailand again until I fly from Bangkok to Hong Kong for 3 days before returning to the US.

November 15, 2008.  THAILAND, Koh Lanta Island

I arrived in Koh Lanta today after a ferry ride, taxi ride, bus ride and minivan ride. Luckily I ran into several girls from Sweden who were studying in Koh Lanta and told me there was an opening at their guesthouse. The normal price for the room with air con, cable tv, refrigerator, hot water bathroom and balcony is $30 per night but if I paid for a month it was only $10 a night. With one month left I decided to make my stand here for the remainder of my time in Thailand. I prepaid for the month and headed to the beach. The beach is one of the best beaches that I have ever visited. The water is clear and beautiful and is chest deep only 4 ft from the beach. There are several beach bars and restaurants to watch the incredible sunsets and the restaurants have nightly BBQ's which include red snapper, sea bass , prawns and squid with a baked potato and salad for only about $15. That will probably be my Thanksgiving dinner.

Probably won't blog too much unless something exciting happens. I usually go to the beach early in the morning and go back to the room and watch movies until the hottest time of the day passes. Then back to the beach in the late afternoon. It will be interesting to see how one month of quiet beach time will be but who knows maybe something exciting will happen.

I leave Bangkok on December 14th and fly to Hong Kong for 3 days and then back home.

December 10, 2008.  THAILAND (Diving on Koh Haa), Krabi

Finally got a chance to go diving. I did two dives on Koh Haa which means the five islands. But as the dive instructor told us they are actually six islands. Only one island has a small beach and most of the island are large, tall rocks which protrude out of the Adaman Sea. The diving was really good. We only went to about 17 meters deep and the visibility was excellent. We saw almost every type of fish possible, beautiful coral walls and an octopus running along the coral to escape the approaching divers. On my second dive I stayed down for 61 minutes which is a personal best for me since I used to breathe too quickly but finally have slowed my breathing way down.

December 12 - 16th, 2008.  THAILAND, Krabi

Today I go to Krabi after 27 days on Koh Lanta. 3 days in Krabi and then the overnight bus to Bangkok to catch my flight to Hong Kong. Krabi is know for its excellent rock climbing though I will not be participating at least for this trip.

Ohe day I took the bus from Krabi to Ao Nang Beach and the surrounding beaches.

I decided to skip the overnight bus to Bangkok and purchased a cheap flight to Bangkok to catch the connecting flight to Hong Kong.  Booked another night in Krabi and fly out on 16th. Things change, especially at the end of a long trip and you are tired and ready to go home.

December 16 - 18th, 2008.  HONG KONG 

I flew from Krabi airport to Bangkok to Hong Kong in a whirlwind day of airports. I got to Hong Kong early on the 17th.  Then I had one night and one day to spend in downtown Hong Kong. I took the ferry across the harbour and went to Victoria Peak which overlooks Hong Kong and the harbour and is the highest point. My hostel was in a great location downtown and near the famous night market where I bought Kade and Madison's Christmas presents. The hostel was $34 for a bed which is very expensive but luckily I had a room by myself even though there were 2 other bunks in the room. Flying home on 18th.

END OF AN AMAZING ADVENTURE 

CHAPTER 10.  CENTRAL AMERICA (Mayan Ruins) Costa Rica,  Guatemala, Mexico,  Belize, Honduras, and El Salvador 

Overview (June 9 - August 17th)

Leaving on June 9th for 10 days in Costa Rica with family including my son, Scott, daughter- in-law, Amber and the grandkids, Kade and Madison. This will be their first venture outside the U.S. After that I will fly to Guatemala and make a large circle starting in Guatemala, then southern Mexico, back into Northern Guatemala, Belize, Honduras, and El Salvador specifically to visit their respective Mayan Ruins. Then I will return to Guatemala, my favorite country, before flying home on August 18th.

June 9, 2010.   (COSTA RICA,  Flight and First Day in Costa Rica)

We left BR at 3 am to go to the airport in NO. Luckily my son,, Jon, agreed to take us to the airport. Our flight to San Jose, Costa Rica left at 6 am and after a 45 minute layover in Miami, arrived in San Jose at 11:30 am. Refusing to pay $25 for a cab to San Jose costs us an extra 1.5 hrs on the local bus. Due to improper planning by me mostly but that's part of backpacking. After getting on the local bus, we had about 4 hrs until we reached La Fortuna,   No air conditioning on the bus but windows down, cool rain outside and beautiful mountain scenery made the trip enjoyable. Kids slept some as we were all exhausted. The budget hotel was only a couple of blocks from downtown La Fortuna in a quiet neighborhood. A double room with private bath and triple room with private bath for only $50 total for both rooms a night. After checking in we headed out for our fist real meal of the day. ( Whopper at Airport Burger King was $8 by itself which we declined)

Seeing the lava flow at Arenal Volcano was one of the sights we came to La Fortuna to see. We hired a minivan to take us to the best location to view the lava. The top of the mountain is best viewed at night and when there is rain. There was a slight drizzle when the van picked us up and drove the 15 miles to the viewing spot. There were  other tour buses and vans but our guide took us to the best local spot which only had one other local van. We were rewarded with an hour of beautiful sights and sounds from the volcano. Red hot molten lava flowing down the mountain and the occasional rumbling of the volcanic gases releasing from the top. Back to the hotel at 8:30 pm and everyone exhausted.

June 10, 2010.   (COSTA RICA,  La Fortuna Waterfall and Baldi Hot Springs)

The La Fortuna Waterfall is one of the highlights of the area at 70 meters (224 feet). We took a taxi, after a little negotiation, to the waterfall which was about 3 miles away. The hike from the entrance to the waterfall was pretty steep but had concrete steps and railings. Unfortunately the steep 20 minute downhill hike would turn into a steep 30 minute climb. lol  The waterfall was spectacular and there were a few people swimming in the icy water. After a little reluctance, everyone finally took the plunge.   I got everyone to agree to walk back from the waterfall to the hotel to save the $6 taxi fare and experience hiking. It took a little over an hour to walk back to the hotel and luckily it was all downhill. Wonderful experience, especially since it began to rain as we started back to the hotel and rained continuously for the entire hike. We, of course, forgot our rain gear and umbrellas but we laughed and enjoyed the experience. I have always heard that you can get only so wet. Not really sure about that saying now though.

 After getting back to the hotel, we got dry and then made plans to go to Baldi Hot Springs to enjoy the 25 hot spring pools, numerous water slides and buffet. At $22 a person for the entire day plus a dinner buffet it seemed like a good way to end the day. If we had not forced the kids to leave they would have tried to spend the night there. The water slides were just too much fun.

For those who wonder why I post prices a lot, the reason is two-fold. First, to show that you can travel inexpensively and still have a great time and secondly, I plan on taking guided tours to various locations and want to give people an idea of the expenses.

June 11, 2010.   (COSTA RICA, Whitewater rafting)

Today we went whitewater rafting. We had an amazing day and Madison got to "ride the bull" which meant ride on front of the raft through less treacherous rapids. The water was so cold but we were too busy paddling and hanging on for it to bother us much. About halfway through the rapids,, we stopped and the guides sliced up fresh pineapple  and watermelon.  Just what we needed and BEST PINEAPPLE EVER. Afterwards we stopped off for a great prepared late lunch at a restaurant which was included. Most "typical" meals include beef or chicken, rice and beans.. Tomorrow we are going by jeep-boat-jeep, which means a taxi to Lake Arenal, then a ferry (pontoon boat) across the lake and then picked up by another taxi on the other side. A total of 2.5 hrs. Somewhat better than the 7-8 hr local bus around the lake.  

June 12, 2010.  (COSTA RICA,  Monteverde to Quepos)

We left Hotel Dorothy in La Fortuna for the jeep-boat-jeep ride to Monteverde. The ride really is a van-pontoon boat-van. The cost was $18 per person and only takes 2.5 hrs instead of the 8 hrs which the local bus takes to go around Lake Arenal. I have taken the local bus around before and the shorter version is much better even though more expensive. We are staying at the Vista Golfo and the kids love it because it has bunk beds, hammocks everywhere, many free computers with internet access and beautiful views of the Cloud Forest. Scott and Amber have a double bed with bathroom for $30 a night and me and the kids have a triple room with outside shared bathroom for $30 a night. With unlimited free coffee and free breakfast this is really a great deal. We go early in the morning to do the canopy zip line.

June 13, 2010.   (COSTA RICA,  Canopy Zipline)

After being canceled due to the lightning, we were finally able to enjoy the Canopy Zip Line at Selvatura Park in Monteverde. The Zip Line consists of 16 tree to tree stations over a total of 3 miles with some at heights of over 100 feet ABOVE the tree canopy. Crazy high. Scott has always had a fear of heights but managed well. Kade, on the other hand, had some serious knee knocking going on. Madison rode with a guide most of the time because she was too light. She did get to ride alone on a couple. Amber did well but like Scott kept commenting on how high they were. The Tarzan Swing was waiting for us at the end. Jumping off a very high platform and swinging out over the jungle canopy. Worth a trip to Costa Rica by itself.

June 14th and 15th,  2010.  (COSTA RICA,  Travel day)

The alarm was set for 3:30 am in order for us to catch the 3 hr local bus to Puntarenas and then switch to another local bus for 3 hrs to Quepos after a 30 minute layover. I woke up at 2:30 and could not get to sleep again and Scott had set his clock incorrectly and had everyone up at 3. Even with all the mass confusion of getting everything together and being unsure exactly what time it was, we made it to the bus in time. It was early, everyone was tired, the roads were rough and the bus stopped every 15 minutes for 3 hrs to pick up more people. It was GREAT.  Around 5 am daylight was just beginning and you could finally see that this bus was traveling along a dirt and gravel road mere feet from very high drop offs in the mountains. While we were traveling downhill you couldn't help but wonder when the last time this bus had its brakes checked. lol

The bus was running late and we made the bus transfer with only moments to spare. If we had missed that bus we would have had to wait for 3 more hrs until the next bus to Quepos. But we made it. We got to Quepos at 11 am, grabbed lunch at a soda, kids swam in the Hostel pool, and then a quick siesta. Good but tiresome day.

7.5 hour bus ride $6 per person, life experience.. 

The next day was a beach day. 

June 16, 2010.  (COSTA RICA, Manuel Antonio National Park (monkeys, monkeys, monkeys)

We left early for the park to hopefully see the monkeys in action. We were not disappointed. We saw lots of monkeys, many within 1-2 feet. We also saw sloths, iguanas and a long non-poisonous snake slithering down our path. Unfortunately no one other than me brought a bathing suit, mostly due to the sunburn that we all encountered yesterday. The private beaches at the park were beautiful, uncrowded and very clean. The park provides several bathroom facilities, showers and drinking water throughout the park for only $10 per person with children under 12 free. If you come here pack a lunch, ice chest and plenty of sunscreen and make a complete day of it. The only injury of the day was when a monkey dislodged a 1.5 ft. long rotten tree branch and it fell on Madison's head. She is okay but let everyone know she was in pain. lol

UPDATE: No longer allowed to bring food in the National Park. 

June 17, 2010.  ( COSTA RICA,  Alajuela)

Left Quepos at 10 am and had a long but beautiful 3.5 ride through the mountains to Alajuela. Alajuela is only 5 minutes from the International Airport and much nicer and closer than San Jose. 

We arrived at the Hotel Mi Tierra in Alajuela shortly after 1pm. The hotel is great and has a pool. We got a room with 5 beds and bathroom for $65 and that includes breakfast and a taxi to the airport. Unfortunately we will be leaving at 5 am for the 5 minute taxi ride to the airport. 

June 18, 2010.   (GUATEMALA,  Antigua)

Said goodbye to the family and flew to Guatemala City at 10 am. I will have to adapt to traveling alone quickly, but it will probably not take long as it is the norm. Not anything in Guatemala City that I wanted to see so I took a shuttle for $10 to Antigua. Only about a 45 minute drive if no traffic.

Antigua's setting is gorgeous, nestled between 3 volcanoes (Volcan Agua, Volcan Acatenango, and Volcan Fuego). The streets are cobblestones and the buildings that line the streets are multicolored. The town of 45,000 has a beautiful Parque Central (Central Park) which is the gathering place for both locals and visitors. The plaza's famous fountain was built in 1738. Across the street from the park is the Catedral de Santiago which was founded in 1542, damaged by earthquakes many times and only partially rebuilt between 1780 and 1820.

" I sought to see the amazing as normal, and the daily as unique, and in that swirling paradox, I found the joy of travel."  Mary Poxon

June 21, 2010.   (GUATEMALA,  Lake Atitlan)

Lake Atitlan is one of the most beautiful lakes in the world, if not the most beautiful. Lake Como in Italy has always been my favorite lake until now. While Lake Como has beautiful mountains, beautiful mansions, and beautiful villages, Lake Atitlan has volcanoes surrounding it. Apples and Oranges, I will consider it a tie. To see Lake Como see my Europe blog.

Lake Como, it seems to me, touches on the limit of permissibly picturesque, but Atitlan is Como with additional embellishments of several immense volcanoes. It really is too much of a good thing.  Aldous Huxley

I just finished a 3 hr hike on a path that runs high on the mountains and follows the lake. An English girl and boy from the hostel went along with me. We picked up an unwanted guide along the way. The English girl spoke Spanish and told him we were not interested in a guide but that did not deter him. Luckily for us he came in real handy. The trail had been damaged by Storm Agatha and had washed out portions of the trail. There was one spot when the path was only large enough for one foot to fit on it and it was about a 30 foot fall if your foot slipped. Thinking back on it this was not a very smart move on our part to follow the trail when there was a serious chance of getting hurt. We made it to San Marcos about 3 hrs after our initial departure, quickly got lost looking for the boat to take us back, and finally made it back to the hostel after a 20 minute boat ride. I took over 260 pictures and will post them in about 4 days. The hostel will not allow us to download pictures on their computers.

June 22, 2010.    (GUATEMALA,  La Iguana Perdida Hostel, Lake Atitlan)

Great hiking yesterday from Santa Cruz to San Marcos and then straight up the mountain that afternoon to the village. Today it will be watching soccer with the rest of the world and relaxing in the hammock all afternoon watching the lake and volcanoes.

There are houses with beautiful views for $250 a month. A good option in the future for escaping those hot Louisiana summers. Nights here are actually cool and require a blanket while the days are mostly in the 70's.

I travel in the morning to visit Chichiastenago for the famous Thursday and Sunday markets in which the Mayan hill tribes come to town to sell their wares. Soon I will be heading to southern Mexico to see Mayan temples and then back into Guatemala to visit Tikal, which is supposed to be the best of  the Mayan temples. I am sure some would argue that point.

June 24, 2010.   (GUATEMALA, Chichiastenago)

 I have been in Chichi for the Mayan market which is on Thursdays and Sundays. All of the Mayan villagers come to town to sell their crafts, vegetables, poultry and food prepared in stalls side by side. I will add more info and pictures when I get to San Cristobal, Mexico tomorrow. I have decided to take a shuttle which will take me to the border and anothe shuttle picks me up on the other side. It is about twice as expensive as taking the chicken buses but this border crossing and the trip to it can be hazardous. Anyway all the backpackers at the last 2 hostels were all taking the shuttle so I might as well. Save me some time also not having to make lots of connections.

Friday,  June 25, 2010.   (Chichi to San Cristabol, Mexico)

Got up at 5:30 am for the 7 am shuttle to San Cristobal, Mexico. Nightmare. 11 hours and a flat tire later we made it to the hostel at 7 pm. Should have take the chicken bus and risked being robbed. lol

  June 26, 2010.   (MEXICO,  San Cristobal)

Beautiful city. Just watched the USA lose to Ghana in soccer and be eliminated from World Cup. Soccer never means as much until you travel out of the States and then it is everything. Wonderful group of Irish, English and Americans on the road where I am.

June 27, 2010.   (MEXICO,  Canon del Sumidero)

Signed up last night to do the boat ride through the Canon del Sumidero, which is supposedly pretty spectacular. This morning it was pouring down raining from Tropical Depression Alex which fortunately is on the east coast of Mexico, I am on the west side. There are no do-overs , so off we went in the packed van with what rain gear we had. It was a miserable 1.5 hrs getting soaked in the open boat with the rain coming down so hard several of us had our sunglasses on to prevent our eyes from getting stung by the rain. Got a few pictures and will post soon. There was an amazing waterfall that just came out of the side of one of the high cliffs. Still my worst days traveling are still great and I appreciate the opportunity.

June 28th and 29th,  2010.   (San Cristobal to Palenque, Mexico)

Left rainy San Cristobal in hopes of better weather in Palenque.  I took the 1st class bus today because it left earlier and was only $3 more. The extra comfort (reclining seat), movies and air con made the 6 hr bus ride much easier. There was also a toilet on board. What will they think of next.  Guess I have been riding too many "chicken buses". Beautiful weather for the ride through the mountainous southern Mexico terrain. The winding roads, beautiful scenery and knowing one wrong turn could end the bus down one of the deep ravines provide an additional rush.

Getting up early to view the ruins. Supposedly they are quite spectacular. Hopefully post pictures of the ruins tomorrow before my 8.5 hour bus and boat ride to Flores, Guatemala to see the famous Mayan ruins of Tikal.

Got up at 6:30 am to get ready for the 1.5 mile hike to the Palenque ruins. To keep in shape and save the 75 cents for the collectivo ride,  I headed up the path at about 7 am. Misled by reception, my short walk turned into almost 2 hrs uphill. Got my workout though but the humidity and effort climbing uphill left my clothes quite drenched. It ended up being 4.65 miles. The ruins were magnificent and in great shape. I do not have time until I get home to properly put in details of the ruins but hope the pictures give some idea of the magnitude of this place to the Mayans. The fact that you can climb all over the ruins gives it a more personal feel than say Chichen itza.

June 30, 2010.   (Palenque, Mexico to Flores, Guatemalal

Shuttle, boat, shuttle for 8.5 hrs. Will post pictures when I get wifi or faster internet, hopefully Belize.

July 1, 2010.  (GUATEMALA,  Tikal)

I loved the ruins at Palenque but was blown away by the Mayan ruins and pyramids of Tikal. Our guided tour began a little after 6:30 am this morning and on the road to the ruins we were greeted by howler and spider monkeys who put on a show for us. We also saw various birds such as parrots and toucans. The highlight for me was climbing the two tallest pyramids which are both around 200 plus feet high. The first one we climbed had a wooden ladder straight up the side of the pyramid. We were rewarded at the top with an awesome view of the Mayan complex and surrounding jungle. Tikal is special in regards to other Mayan ruins in that it at one time was completely taken over by the jungle and secondly, that you are able to climb most of the pyramids. Other than the tremendous height at the top, there is also only about 2 to 3 feet of space along the top step. This makes it interesting as the other climbers arrive at the top. Sometimes getting down is scarier than going up. I have great pictures and videos and will post as soon as I find faster internet. Belize tomorrow. Time for a little 5 day vacation on the beach in the middle of my travels.

July 3, 2010.   (Snorkeling in Belize)

Great day snorkeling in Belize today. Swam with nurse sharks, saw 3 large sea turtles, petted a sting ray and watched two manatees playing less than 5 ft away. Add in beautiful coral and colorful fish and you have a great day.  I can live with the minor sunburn. Internet is $6 hr so blogging will be limited for a while.

Monday, July 5, 2010.   (BELIZE,  Diving the Blue Hole ??????)

After serious debate over the last 3 days I finally decided to dive the Blue Hole. I was told to come by at 5 pm to get outfitted and pay. Around 4:30 I stopped at a local watering hole for a beer and chat with the locals before going to the dive shop. I asked a few locals who had dived the Blue Hole what they thought and was told I would most likely be disappointed but that the other 2 dives included were nice. For $190 US I expect more than disappointment and 2 nice dives. The Blue Hole is also 2.5 hrs by boat and it is supposedly a very rough ride. One I would have made had it been spectacular. The locals said that due to the depth (120 ft.) you only have about 7 minutes when you reach your deepest point. Will save that money for extra diving in Honduras which is also supposed to be spectacular.

July 6, 2010.   (Last day in Caye Caulker, Belize)

Woke up this morning and very cloudy and depression headed our way. Another reason to be glad I did not dive yesterday. Visibility most likely would have been affected. Leave in the morning for Belize City by ferry and then bus to Placencia, Belize. Will lay around on the beach until the weekly ferry takes me to Honduras on Friday. Then on to Roatan on the Bay Islands. Serious, inexpensive diving and beaches there. Will post more pictures when I get to Honduras.

July 8, 2010.   (BELIZE,  Placencia)

5 hours on the bus and 2 short boat rides got me from Caye Caulker to Placencia down in southern Belize. Tomorrow I catch the 5 hr ferry to Honduras and then minivan to San Pedro Sula. One more 3-4 hour bus ride and I will be at La Ceiba, which is the launching point for all boats to the Bay Islands. I hope to spend at least 1-2 weeks there. I have decided on Utila instead of Roatan after much consideration. The beaches and diving are better on Roatan but the rooms and food are close to twice as expensive. I will check it out and if necessary I will move to Roatan later. Placencia is really beautiful with great beaches. It is located on a peninsula but quiet since it is the rainy season. Mostly rains at night. 

July 10, 2010.    (HONDURAS,  Utila)

After a really long day on the boat and bus to La Ceiba yesterday, I finally made it to Utila. Roatan is the more touristy island in Honduras and the beaches are more beautiful and the diving is a little better, but Utila is the backpackers haven. With lodging and food less than half of that on Roatan it was an easy decision. For $185 US you get 10 dives and a free bed in a dorm at one of the dive shops. I opted for a private room at Hotel Seaside with private bath for only $10 nightly. Free wifi and hammocks on the 2nd floor 

overlooking the Caribbean were bonuses. Food is very cheap compared Belize.

July 12, 2010.   (HONDURAS, Utila, Jules' World Tattoo)

While sitting in the Pirate Bar in Utila Honduras waiting for the World Cup to begin, I quickly noticed a girl, Jules, who I had met earlier in Antigua. After speaking for a moment she quickly turned around to speak to someone else and that is when I noticed it, a tattoo outline of the world. I, along with many other backpackers, quickly told her how awesome it looked. She also said that she planned putting a red dot on all the places she has traveled. While sitting at the table looking almost hypnotically looking at her tattoo every time her back was facing me, I realized that I had finally gotten the inspiration for the "travel" tattoo that I had been thinking about since my trip to Thailand. She told me that she had gotten the tattoo from Mike at Tattoo Antigua in Antigua, Guatemala. I realized that if I was going to do that it would have to be a tattoo of the entire World including the specific countries. I also knew that I would like to color in each of the countries that I had traveled to. I went back to Antigua and got the outline of the world done by Mike and then got the countries colored in by Natural Mystic Tattoo in Pineville, Louisiana. The following pictures are of my initial tattoo and the progression of coloring in the countries. 70 counties so far with hopefully many more to follow.

July 15, 2010.   (HONDURAS, Utila,  Great Diving on North Shore)

Just realized the last 2 posts were dated June. While backpacking days of the week don't mean a thing and obviously the months are not too important either. Dove the North Shore of Utila today and went down to 110 feet, a new personal best for me. It was like swimming in a box of crayons with all the wonderful colors of fish and coral. No Whale Sharks today but maybe later.

July 15, 2010.   (Thursdays injuries)

With all the fun I had diving Thursday I knew it could not last. First, I strained my lower back changing out air tanks and did not realize how bad it was until I could not get out of bed this morning. Then to make matters worse I stubbed my big toe on a concrete step and it does not look good. I went to the pharmacy this morning in an effort to get bandages, an antibiotic cream and pain pills and muscle relaxers. Pharmacies throughout Central and South America distribute just about every pill needed without you having to see a doctor. However, he did suggest I let Dr. John look at my toe. I told him I would rest a couple of days and if it does not get better see him. Dr. John is supposedly a good doctor when not drinking or self-medicated.

Monday  July 19, 2010

With deep regret, it is time to move on. Not being able to dive makes it much easier. If you stay somewhere on your travels for more than a few days you get to meet the locals and interact with them. After a week, they become your extended family. But after 10 days in the same place I also have the desire for new places and experiences, which is what makes traveling so incredible. Will saw goodbye to everyone at Gunter's Diving and Skidrow today and catch the 6:20 am ferry to La Ceiba to catch the connecting bus to San Pedro Sula to catch the connecting bus to Copan Ruinas (more amazing Mayan ruins). After a few days there I will head to El Salvador to completely check off Central America from my travel wish list.

Wednesday July 21, 2010

"During the Classic period (AD 250-900), the city at Copan Ruinas culturally dominated the region for centuries. The architecture is not as grand as Tikal's but the city produced remarkable sculptures and hieroglyphics. Its culture was so developed, it is often labeled the 'Paris of the Maya world '."   Lonely Planet

The ruins were simply amazing and detail was spectacular. 

July 22, 2010.  (Crazy day traveling to La Palma, El Salvador)

Caught the chicken bus (retired yellow US school bus with over 400,000 miles) to save a little money. The 2.5 hr bus ride to La Entrada to catch the connecting bus was only $2.50. That comes with its own price of stopping to pickup everyone walking down the road and stops for no apparent reason. The exciting part came when we got to the top of the mountain. It is as though the brakes on the bus no longer worked. We were going 50 mph down the mountain with hairpin curves at every corner. Not much scares me anymore but I was starting to get a little concerned because earlier the brakes did not sound like they were in good shape. I looked around to see if anyone else was concerned including the 5 or so children on the bus. No worries, everyone seemed to be going on with their routines. I decided to embrace it rather than panic and enjoyed the rest of the ride. Disneyland or Six Flags had nothing on this bus ride.

 Next I changed buses in La Entrada for the rest of the ride to the  border. The bus would almost be considered 1st Class (it wasn't) and had a bathroom. The 4.5 hr ride would have been fine if not for the Best of the 80's tape that he was playing over and over. To make it worse he had about 4 songs that he was seriously attached to. After a while it was like Chinese Water Torture. At the end of one song you could just sense what song was going to play next and no matter how much you wished for it to be a new song, it wasn't. Finally made it to the border.

A little confusion over if I had paid my tourist fee earlier and finally made it across the border just in time to have missed the last bus to La Palma (8 miles away). As I am walking towards La Palma trying to decide whether to walk it or find a dive to stay in, a tuk tuk (3 wheel motor taxi) pulls up and says he will take me to La Palma for $6. Thought about it and realized dark would soon be approaching and agreed.

However, things did end on a positive note. Stopped at a really nice hotel which looked too expensive just to check prices and she said a private room with hot water and bathroom was $15 a night. Beautiful place with free wi-fi , a pool and restaurant. I told her that the price sounded okay but I would have to check a few other places. As I was walking away the owner spoke to her in Spanish and she said she had been mistaken that the rooms were only $10 a night. Quickly dropped my bags and signed in. The restaurant is pricey and I only eat there on every now and then, with my $5 daily savings.  

As I posted on facebook, currency can  be confusing when changing  countries often. (colones in Costa Rica, quetzales in Guatemala, pesos in Mexico, Belizean Dollars in Belize, lempiras in Honduras, and now American Dollars in El Salvador). No kidding, its their official currency. Go figure.     

July 23, 2010.  (EL SALVADOR,  La Palma)

Regarding La Palma, Lonely Planet states, "At first glance, La Palma, at 1200m, resembles a coloring-book page zealously attended to by a seven-year-old. Its narrow streets are populated with tiny, tiled homes in garish tones of plum, mint and tangerine, some covered in fanciful murals or drawings."   

That is a perfect description with murals and artists everywhere.

I have probably traveled to more than 100 Parque Centrals throughout South and Central America and every time I visit one a sense of jealousy occurs. Regardless of the size of the town, everything revolves around the central park. Children play there and family and friends congregate there just to socialize rather than get home to watch more television. I am not sure why our culture does not have this but I can only assume that our towns are built around the highways rather than the highways built to the town.  Still a little sad that the majority of towns don't have this. I believe the Spanish got it right here.

Sunday July 25, 2010.   (EL SALVADOR,  Playa El Tunco)

After 5 hrs of traveling, I arrived at the beach, Playa El Tunco, on the Pacific side of El Salvador. The beaches are known for one thing, the best surfing in Central America. Serious waves. The black sand beaches are almost non existent at this time of year until the tide goes out, mostly black volcanic rock. Found a great place to stay, Tunco Lodge, for only $8 a night in the 3 person dorm. It has a swimming pool and free wi-fi, so this will make a great place to stop for a while, chill out and watch some really good surfers. Love to travel but really missing the family, especially the grandkids, Kade and Madison.

July 26, 2010.   (EL SALVADOR,  Playa El Tunco)

Spent the evening with great new friends from New Zealand, Ireland, the U.S. and a few locals., Can't explain how great it is to trade travel stories and watch great surfing while doing so, but it is truly a great experience. No matter how little your travel experience is, it is special to listen to other people's stories. My only wish is for others to travel and experience the same wonder that I am lucky enough to experience.  

Saturday July 31, 2010.  (EL SALVADOR,  Juayua)

Finally back to traveling and seeing the sights. Juayua is the beginning of my journey down the Ruta de las Flores, a winding ride through coffee country, from Sonsonate to Ahuachapan. These mountainous villages are flanked by coffee farms and volcanoes. There is a large outdoor food fair on the weekends near the Parque Central. Will travel for another week or so and then head back to Antigua. Should visit at least 3-4 other villages before crossing back into Guatemala. 

Every weekend Juayua has a food fair that is located around the central park. There are over 50 food stalls cooking up everything imaginable but chicken, shrimp and ribs seem to be the favorites. The food is truly incredible. There are large tents everywhere with plastic tables and chairs and local favorite singers at several venues throughout the food fair. Most pictures were taken before the crowds arrived as I quickly forgot about taking pictures and enjoyed the festivities. They do this EVERY WEEKEND. Too much fun.

August 2, 2010.  (Juayua,  El Salvador to Antigua, Guatemala)

After about 8 hours and several "chicken buses", I made it to Antigua. This completes my full circle of travel to see the Mayan ruins.  I will fly home on the 17th and use the remainder of my time to visit Lake Atitlan and get my tattoo in Antigua before my departure.

August 3, 2010.  (GUATEMALA,  Antigua, tattoo appointment)

I got up and went searching for Antigua Tattoo. That is where my friend, Jules, had gotten  her world tattoo outline several weeks ago which was my inspiration. However, I had decided to include EVERY COUNTRY outlined in my World Tattoo and color in each country after I visited them. Mike, the owner, however was not in today so I schedule an appointment  for August 12th to get my 1st EVER TATTOO. I will leave on the 5th to enjoy the lake until my tattoo appointment. 

August 5, 2010.   (GUATEMALA,  San Pedro la Laguna) 

The Mayans believed that Lake Atitlan was the umbilical cord to the Universe. It's said that once you have visited the Lake you will always feel the yearning to return. I believe this and possibly the reason I am back again. My first time I was isolated in Santa Cruz on the lake with little knowledge of the other villages. My trip to San Pedro, considered the backpacker village, opened my eyes to all of the lake activity. With many inexpensive hotels and restaurants this quickly felt like somewhere I could live. 

I found a great hotel, Villa Del Lago, on the lake as the name implies for only $7 a night for a private room.

August 6, 2010. (GUATEMALA,  laundry)

I woke at 6:15 am to voices right outside my room. I could hear several women talking but of course, did not understand what they were saying. I looked outside my window and noticed several women waist deep in the lake. Seems they were just doing laundry on flat rocks located in the lake. Some traditions never die it seems.

August 8, 2010

I enjoyed a plate of spaghetti and Gallo cerveza (beer) at the Dock Restaurant and watched the many taxi/boats ferrying passengers around the lake. There are approximately 13 villages scattered around the lake and passenger boats are the primary mode of transportation. Later I walked to the Alegre Pub for a couple of beers and conversation with many of the ex pats and fellow backpackers. The Alegre Pub owned by Simon has amazing food. 

August 9, 2010.  (GUATEMALA,  climbing Volcan San Pedro)

Left at 6 am to climb Volcan San Pedro which is 9,600 ft high. We climbed STRAIGHT UP for over 3 hrs with only 2 small breaks of 5 minutes each. Did not realize how bad of shape I was in until this climb. The effort was well rewarded with a spectacular view of the lake and the surrounding volcanoes. We even witnessed Volcan Pacaya near Antigua erupting smoke. Pictures at summit were a little hazy and unfortunately doesn't portray the actual beauty that we all witnessed.

August 11, 2010

I leave tomorrow for Antigua to get my much anticipated  World tattoo and then fly home on the 17th. I have been on the beautiful Lake Atitlan for the past 7 days and it has been great. Wanted to share some random San Pedro pictures. It is my favorite place in the World.

August 12, 2010.   GUATEMALA, Antigua,  Tattoo Day)

Back in Antigua for 3rd time this trip to get my tattoo at 3:30 today. I have no clue as to what it is like getting a tattoo and the fact that it will cover my entire back concerns me that it will be very painful. Mike and I discussed the tattoo before beginning and asked if I could handle the pain for next 3 hours. I told him I didn't know as I had never had a tattoo. Needless to say, the pain was intense, at least for me. But I seemed to mentally accept the "discomfort" as I became accustomed to the stinging pain. No one, not even my family knew of my plans. Will not color in any countries this trip as there is not enough time and the outline needs to heal. After completion, Mike placed plastic wrap over my tattoo and told me I could remove it and clean it off in a couple of hours.

2 hours later, in anticipation, I removed the plastic wrap and gently wiped my back. Tgen I looked at my tattoo in a mirror for the 1st time. WHAT !!!! Upon inspection  I realized me had places New Zealand  on the WRONG SIDE of Australia. I immediately  started getting dressed to go back and complain.

Then it dawned on me. I WAS LOOKING IN THE MIRROR and everything was reversed. I felt like an idiot bit fortunately did not go back to the tattoo shop. That night was very painful as I sleep on my back BUT the tattoo looked GREAT.

Note: Before deciding on a World Tattoo that included all the countries I  "GOOGLED" to see if anyone else had done that and found nothing similar.  

August 13-17th, 2010.   (GUATEMALA,  Antigua revisited) 

Guatemala is definitely worth a trip in itself. With Antigua surrounded by volcanoes, Lake Atitlan (one of most beautiful lakes in the world, Chichicastenago market and Tikal just to name a few, there is so much to do and see it can easily fill 2-4 weeks. I did not make it to Semuc Champey which is a series of pools of water which most say is the most beautiful place in Guatemala. I will post my final pictures of the trip later on Saturday or Sunday. Much appreciation to those who took the time to look at my blog and share this trip with me.

An incredible 70 days traveling through Central America (Costa Rica, Guatemala, southern Mexico, Belize, Honduras and El Salvador). I enjoyed the people of each country especially El Salvador. All countries were beautiful but Guatemala is truly magnificent and probably the next destination for travel with my family. With beautiful Antigua ( which is enough alone),  Lake Atitlan (one of most beautiful lakes in the world), and Tikal (magnificent Mayan ruins) just to name a few, there is enough to consume as long as you want to stay. It is very inexpensive and as opposed to Costa Rica, the shuttles are inexpensive. Shuttles in Guatemala are between $5-$10 a person depending on where you are going instead of $35-$45 per person in Costa Rica. Guatemala also provides easy access to either southern Mexico, Belize, Honduras or El Salvador. Convinced that Guatemala should be at the top of everyone's travel destinations due to diversity, beauty and inexpensive cost. Flight home the 17th. 

GREAT TRIP and 1ST TATTOO 

CHAPTER 12.  (GRAND CANYON & SOUTH AMERICA, and  ANTARCTICA)   

October 20 - 

GRAND CANYON

October 20, 2010

Making final preparations for the Grand Canyon whitewater rafting trip. My brother, Morgan, and my son, Scott, will begin the trip at Lee's Ferry starting on December 1st and meet up with myself and Scott Tffee at Phantom Ranch on December 5th. After camping for the night, Morgan and Scott Passman will hike out and Scott Tiffe and myself will complete the remaining 9 days of trip. There will be 2 rafts and not sure  of the total number of people traveling in our group at any one time but think it will be between 5 and 6 including the raft guides. Don't really know what to expect except that the water is about 40 degrees and keeping dry while rafting down the river is desired, if possible. Most people raft down the river during the summer but Morgan and Mike have a private permit and late fall and winter is usually when those are available. But having a private permit allows you to travel for less than 1/2 of the normal guided price. 

November 4, 2010  (Baton Rouge to Flagstaff)

After spending the night at Jon', Scott Tiffee (Scott's father-in-law) and I flew from BR airport to Phoenix and then took a 3 hour shuttle to Flagstaff. Cleaned up and went to Mexican restaurant for 1/2 price appetizers and 1/2 price Dos Equis on draft and some quality time with Melanie, our waitress. Back to the room for sleep because the shuttle to Grand Canyon leaves at 8 am. Flagstaff is a beautiful college town (North Arizona University) of 50,000 set at an elevation of 7000 ft.

November 5, 2010.  (South Rim to Phantom Ranch)

Caught the 8 am shuttle from the Amtrak station to the South Rim of the Grand Canyon. This is the area that most people visit when they go to the Grand Canyon. After being dropped off we got a sandwich for the 9.2 mile hike down the Bright Angel Trail and made sure out water bottles were full. The canyon view from the South Rim was spectacular. We began our hike down the trail around 10:40 am expecting a 4 hour hike to Phantom Ranch at the bottom of the canyon. We passed several packs of mules with riders coming up from Phantom Ranch and many struggling hikers. We walked for what seemed like an eternity with our knees taking a beating on the descent of the trail and then realized we were only half way after 3 painful hours of hiking. We finally reached our destination after 5 pm where we were supposed to signal Morgan and the others to raft across the Colorado to pick us up and return to the camp site. However, we saw a raft on our side of the river with 2 life jackets in front. We decided they must have left us the boat for us to row over when we go there. Scott manned the oars and off we went to TRY and cross the river. 2 minutes after rowing we heard a voice screaming to come back. Seems they were all on our side of the river looking for us and we were not meant to try and cross. Hate to think of what would have happened had the Colorado River gotten hold of our raft with our inexperienced crew.

November 6-13, 2010.   (Rafting the Colorado River)

While I normally blog each day of a trip, I found it almost impossible to express the beauty and wonder of rafting down the Colorado River in the Grand Canyon. I have decided to give a synopsis of our daily routine and let the pictures do the rest. Our boats were full with ice chests and prepacked daily meals in ammo cans for us to cook each day from our set menu. 

Morning

Each morning begins early with JC (main guide) getting the kitchen going and getting breakfast started. We began packing up our cots and packing our dry bags so that we can load the boat after breakfast. Packing the boat and making sure everything is secure usually takes over an hour. We usually start down the river around 9:30 am. Each morning usually involves a few really good rapids that is almost certain to get you wet to some extent. There is also a lot of rowing when there is little current at some portion of the river. I was on the raft with Lance who was rafting his 1st time down the river. Scott and Mike were in the raft with JC who has guided groups down the river 281 times. For some reason I could only row backwards. Just couldn't get the frontward rowing. If the rapids were large, we would pull over and scout the rapids to decide which was the best route.

Lunch 

Lunch was usually sandwiches and almost always on the river. We would tie the boats together and just drift on periods of the river which did not have major rapids. Quick bite to eat, unhook and back to rafting the larger rapids. An unexpected addition to the rafting was the canyon side trips which were anywhere from 1-3 times a day. JC would show us side canyon, waterfalls and swimming holes which I am sure would more enticing in the summer. The side trips were really enjoyable.

Evening

We would usually make camp around 4-5 pm. Of course then we would have to unload the boat with all our stuff on it. Takes about an hour to unload, set up the kitchen, get water and get our cots and beds ready. Dinner is always the best meal of the day. Started out sleeping in a tent with my sleeping bag and an air mattress while everyone else had a cot under the stars with their sleeping bag. One night in a tent on the hard ground convinced me to switch to a cot. It got down to 37 one night but that is why you invest in a good sleeping bag. We always went to bed at 9. Watching the stars, satellites, planes, and shooting stars at night was one of my favorite things I enjoyed on the trip.

Note: The rapids varied greatly. Some just looked scary while others looked easy but weren't. One rapid involved had a 20 foot wave which came over our boat and soaked everyone. JC and Lance made it look easy and JC's experience was invaluable. I wish the pictures could convey the beauty and wonder of rafting down the Grand Canyon but it won't, at least not to the level that it truly is. It is just one of those things you should experience yourself.

November 14, 2010

We had camped only 2 miles above Indian Creek where our outfitter, Ceiba, was to pick our rafts, equipment and Scott and  I at 10 am I for the trip back to Flagstaff. Since there were no big rapids we did not have to secure all of our bags and camping equipment. When we got to the landing, JC's wife, Diane, was there to pick up JC, Lance and Mike for the return trip to Las Vegas. Shortly thereafter, the Ceiba truck with long bed trailer showed up and we quickly loaded all the rafts and equipment. The landing is on the Hualapi reservation and the road back to the main highway takes about an hour and is dirt and some gravel. About 30 minutes into the trip the trailer breaks around the axle and tire mounting. We removed the tire and relied on the remaining 5 tires for the remaining 2.5 hr trip. We were dropped off at our discount hotel and I quickly waited for the hot water in the shower to get hot so I could take my first shower in more than 9 DAYS. YOU HEARD ME. Irish Pub, food, beer and a bed for a change. ANOTHER trip of a lifetime.

SOUTH AMERICA   (Part 1)

November 15th and 16th, 2010  (Flagstaff to Ft. Lauderdale to Cartagena to Bogota to Cali)

Arrived in Cartagena at 1:30 pm and then was supposed to catch a connecting flight to Bogota at 3:55 pm but it was delayed until 5:30 pm. Colombia is known worldwide for its beautiful women but while waiting at the departure gate every woman seemed incredibly beautiful. There were about 300 people waiting for flights and at least 40 of them could have been a model anywhere in the world. Found out they had been contestants in the Miss Colombia contest the previous night in Cartagena and were all flying home the same afternoon. The delay seemed to pass much too much quickly. LOL  Finally made it to Bogota around 6:45 pm and then caught the connecting flight to Cali at 8:30 pm and arrived at 9:30. The cab driver the hostel sent was not there when I got outside so found my own cab and made it to the hostel around 10:30 pm. Long 2 days and slept like a baby.

November 17, 2010  (Day 3)  COLOMBIA, Cali

Woke up at 7:30 am well rested for the first time in 2 weeks. Spent most of the day blogging and posting pictures and watched a couple of movies at the hostel. Met a German, Tom, who was staying at the hostel and chatted for a while. No time, energy or desire to check out the famous Cali nightlife on Sexta Avenue. Another big day of traveling tomorrow with 9 hrs on bus to Pasto. Highlight of my day was talking to Kade, Madison and Scott on Skype. Skype definitely helps but does not cure missing everyone.

Nov. 18, 2010 (Day 4)  Cali to Pasto (9 hrs on a bus thru the mountains)

Caught a cab from Casa Blanca Hostel to the bus terminal. On the way to the terminal the police were placing yellow tape around a shooting that had just occurred on the street according to the taxi driver. Sometimes you forget where you are and that Colombia is and can be dangerous if you are not careful. Of course, so can BR or NO. That is why selecting a hostel in a safe neighborhood and not venturing out late at night without a group is important and always take a cab at night. Got to the bus terminal around 7:30 am and they quickly tried to jam me on a crowded bus. It was obvious that the other passengers did not want me in their crowded space so I stepped off the bus. Then the driver offered me a seat in the front with him so off we went. The trip through the Colombian mountains was both beautiful and a little scary. Hairpin turn and some crazy driving high in the mountains makes for an interesting day. There were 5 instances where landslides had occurred with only one serious enough to close the road for a while. Dozers and gravel trucks were working on it but we found a road around it. We also had a police encounter where everyone had to get off the bus. Not sure why since my Spanish is very limited. Have I mentioned that almost no one speaks English in South America. In Central America most speak at little some English it seems. Got to Pasto around 5:30 pm, caught a cab and booked a room at Koala Hostel which was recommended by Lonely Planet. Private room with tv and wifi for only $8.50 night. Will catch another bus to the border of Ecuador and then to Quito. Not sure but expecting 5-6 hrs tomorrow and then 12 days in Quito seeing the sites in Ecuador and learning Spanish, hopefully.

November 19, 2010   (Day 5)   Pasto, Colombia to Quito, Ecuador

Left around 7:30 am and walked the 1.2 miles to the bus station and caught a bus to the border. After quickly getting thru Colombian Immigration, I walked across the street and quickly got thru Ecuador Immigration. Had to be the easiest border crossing ever. Usually there is about 3 miles between immigration and countless people trying to con you out of your money between them. Then I caught a taxi to the bus station which was 6 miles away and then a 5 hr bus to Quito, Ecuador. Arrived around 4:30 pm and then a 45 minute taxi ride to Old Quito in the Historic District to the Hostel Quito Cultural which is really a nice hotel. I plan on staying here until December 3rd and got a private room rate of $13.50 after negotiation including cable TV and breakfast. Only 2 blocks from the Grand Plaza. I have only walked around for about 30 minutes but promise there will be some amazing photos over the next few days. Hoping to find a good Spanish school tomorrow.

Another great day of sights riding through the mountains but no pictures unfortunately because the windows were heavily tinted.

November 21, 2010.   (Street Parades by the Grand Plaza)

Wonderful parades around the Grand Plaza especially the guys on stilts doing flips and splits WHILE ON STILTS. Unfortunately I forgot my camera had video on it. I am so electronically challenged. It started to rain so the parades were cut short so don't have any more pictures. Maybe next Sunday. 

November 22, 2010.   (teleferiQo  [sky tram] to Cruz Loma)

Met a nice Australian couple, Peter and Sadie, at breakfast who asked if I wanted to share a cab to the teleferiQo (sky tram) that leads to the best view of Quito at 4100 meters (13,200 feet). Since the weather was beautiful for a change I decided to chance the weather even though the weather in Quito can change in a second.
We split the $5 cab ride and paid the $7.50 fee up the 2.5 km ride up the mountain. The view was spectacular and the weather remained good for the 1.5 hrs we spent on top. Started raining hard 2 hrs later.

Tuesday,  November 23, 2010   (Putting the day of the week down helps me keep track) lol

Caught a taxi to go to El Panacillo (Little Bread Loaf) , a hill to the south of Quito, which is topped by a huge statue of La Virgen de Quito and offers incredible views of the whole city and surrounding volcanoes.

December 1, 2010.   (Basilica del Voto Nacional)

Went to the Basilica today. Did not tour the inside but climbed to the top for great view of the city. Climbed all the way to the top of the bell tower. Quite a climb to the top of one of the spires.

December 2, 2010.   (Laguna del Quilotoa)

Went on a tour of Laguna del Quilotoa which is a beautiful lake inside a volcano at about 13,000 feet high. We started out at 7 am with my guide and it took almost 4.5 hrs to get there after stopping for the food market at Saquisili for approx. 45 minutes. The ride in our car was even more scary and exciting than the bus trip from Colombia. The road was very high and many hairpin turns with no barriers to keep you from hurtling to your death. We almost got killed when a Giant Orange Dump Truck tried to pass another dump truck on a curve. Still not sure how the 3 vehicles all fit on that narrow mountain road. Probably most scared I have ever been in an automobile. We encountered several other large trucks on the way up the mountain and they all seemed to be racing each other down with little concern for safety. The return trip in the pitch dark of night with all the hairpin curves was no piece of cake either.

Back to the Laguna. We started our trek along the top of the crater around 12 pm. It was my guide, Mateus' first time to Quilotoa, so we were both experiencing it for the 1st time. As we started the journey we immediately found ourselves with a new guide, a brown dog, that seemed determined to lead the way. The trip was to last about 4 hrs. The path along the top of the crater started out very beautiful until the clouds rolled in and we could no longer see the lake. That did not deter us from completing the walk around the crater rim. The dog kept us on the trail a few times when we would have taken a wrong path. The climb was very strenuous as we kept climbing and then descending over and over. We finally reached the approximate end of the trail and saw what looked like a road near a path that went inside the crater. Unfortunately we took the crater path. 2 hours later, lost, we found a native who was was tending sheep who said we would have to walk straight up the mountain that we had descended to get back on the path. It looked too difficult so we continued looking for a better path. With only an hour of daylight, we asked another native woman to guide us out of the crater. We started straight up the wall of the crater for an hour and reached our car about 10 minutes before dark. I paid the woman $10 ($7 more than we had negotiated) because I realized the danger we had been in lost without a flashlight and totally exhausted. We arrived back at the hostel around 9:30 pm laughing about the whole adventure which is easy to do when you are once again safe. Leave for Mendoza tomorrow night on a plane.

December 3rd and 4th, 2010.   (Flight from Quito,  Ecuador to Mendoza,  Argentina)

Arrived in Mendoza around 10:30 am this morning after a long night in airports and on planes. I left Quito around 4 pm yesterday, had 2 55 minute flights and one 4 hr flight from Santiago to Mendoza this morning. Beautiful scenery flying over the Andes. Back in 4 bed dorm after being spoiled in private room in Quito but so far I am only one in the room. Love the high 80's daytime weather and high 60's at night but know it will be colder when I get to Patagonia in a few days.

Sunday,   December 5, 2010.   (Sarmiento Avenue and Plaza)

Sarmiento Avenue is not as grand as Los Ramblas in Barcelona but is still a great place to go and have food and drink in an outside cafe and people watch. The avenue leads to the plaza which is not special until they turn on the water fountains. Loving the hostel life again. Still lucky I am only one in the 4 bed dorm. Free pizza and 1/2 price drinks last night and free breakfast every morning. Lot of great backpackers here with great stories. Finally caught up on my sleep after being up for 48 hrs traveling to Mendoza. Hopefully, wine tasting tour tomorrow.

December 6, 2010.   (Loving the laid back vibe of Argentin's wine country)

Finally getting used to Argentina's schedule which is lunch around 2 pm and then a slow dinner involving food, wine and people watchiing from about 8-10 pm. Of course there is always someone playing a guitar and singing for tips. Last night there was also a Jack Sparrow double complete with Pirates costume and unmistakable swagger. Looked exactly like Johnny Deep. He was walking up the avenue before I could get a picture and I did not want to leave my wine and follow him. lol  Back in the States I considered lunch at 11 am and by 5:30 pm I was starving if I had not already eaten. I actually splurged on Sarmiento Avenue last night and had grilled chicken, mashed potatoes, bread and 4 glasses of wine. (1 free glass with dinner and the smallest bottle contains 3 glasses) Best $14 I have spent on the trip including tip. Tonight there is free food at the hostel so I will get back on budget until tomorrow when I go on the bike and wine tasting ride. We leave at 9 am and visit 3 wineries while biking through the orchards. Leave it to the Argentines to think of drinking wine  in  the morning. When in Rome. After the 3rd winery we put our bikes back on the truck and take the shuttle back. Wise decision. Should get back around 2:30 in the afternoon. I have to move out of my room in the morning because my overnight bus to Bariloche leaves at 10:30 pm and we arrive in Bariloche around 2 the next evening. Double Decker  bus with seats that lay completely down, meals and toilet. Kinda feel guilty for all the luxury but it is supposed to be the best way and most scenic way to see the Ruta 40.

December 8, 2010.   (Bariloche, Argentina)

After a sixteen hour bus ride, I finally made it to Bariloche. There is a beautiful lake surrounded by mountains. Starting to really get a feel for Patagonia. I plan on leaving Saturday for a 28 hour bus ride to El Chalten where the scenery and hiking are supposed to be spectacular. Missing everyone at home. Hope all is well.

Thursday  December 9, 2010.    (Back to Basics)

Central America spoiled me with cheap transportation, inexpensive food and private rooms for $5. Just got back from supermarket where I bought food for next 3 days. Ham, bread, water and hot dogs will be my food for the next several days. For me to continue to travel I must make sacrifices and stay away from restaurants and fast food. Budget busters.

As beautiful as it is here, the wind has been blowing at least 50 mph since yesterday. Therefore biking and kayaking, the two most popular things to do, are out of the question for now. Will take some pictures of the town later. Kinda has that Swiss chalet town sorta of feel with chocolate specialty stores on every corner.

Been given bad news by backpacker who went to Ushuaia and did the cruise to Antarctica. While there is usually room for someone at the last minute do to a cancellation, the discounts are no longer down to $2500 for the cruise. More like $3500. Will have to do some soul searching. 

December 11, 2010.   (Bariloche to El Chalten)

For the 1st time in 48 hrs it is not raining, though there are the occasional snowflakes. I leave tonight (8 pm) on a bus for 28 hrs down the famed and rough Ruta 40. While the first 10 hrs will be in darkness, I am looking forward to some amazing scenery. I have secured the no. 1 seat on the top deck of the Double Decker bus and it will almost be like driving with a huge window in front of me seeing everything the driver sees except from above. I arrive at El Chalten at midnight. Not an ideal time to look for your hostel. El Chalten is home to Fitz Roy mountains and supposedly one of most beautiful sights in Patagonia. Hoping for good weather. Miss everyone back home but only heard from Beau in last 10 days. (hint)  Can't ever seem to catch anyone on facebook.
For the 1st time in 48 hrs it is not raining, though there are the occasional snowflakes. I leave tonight (8 pm) on a bus for 28 hrs down the famed and rough Ruta 40. While the first 10 hrs will be in darkness, I am looking forward to some amazing scenery. I have secured the no. 1 seat on the top deck of the Double Decker bus and it will almost be like driving with a huge window in front of me seeing everything the driver sees except from above. I arrive at El Chalten at midnight. Not an ideal time to look for your hostel. El Chalten is home to Fitz Roy mountains and supposedly one of most beautiful sights in Patagonia. Hoping for good weather. Miss everyone back home but only heard from Beau in last 10 days. (hint)  Can't ever seem to catch anyone on facebook.

December 13, 2010.    (Hike to Fittz Roy from El Chalten)

I left at 9 am for the 8 hr hike to and back to the Fitz Roy lookout. The trek there was beautiful and mostly flat until the last hour which is straight up. But it was all worthwhile as you have the best view of Fitz Roy and the glacier lake at its foot. The trek back, however, was a different story. The 4 hr hike back to the hostel turned into 7 hours as I took the wrong trail and saw an entire part of the country that I was not expecting. Well marked trail, just the wrong one. lol

December 15, 2010    (El Chalten to El Calafate)

I caught the 7:30 am bus to El Calafate, starting point for most tours to the famous Perito Moreno Glacier. I found my hostel after walking around lost for about 30 minutes. The hostel is a little pricey ($15) for 4 bed dorm but the beds are NOT bunk beds and there is a private bathroom and TV in the room. Bought my tour ticket to see the glacier tomorrow. Hoping for same good weather as we are having today. Still can not get over the wind in Patagonia. There is ALWAYS a constant 50-60 mph wind with some gust actually knocking you down. It never stops. It also seems to come from every angle as I walked around the four sides of the hostel and the wind is just as bad on each side. Strange.

December 16, 2010.   (ARGENTINA,  Perito Moreno Glacier)

It was billed as one of the most beautiful and "must see" things to do in South America.  Today I visited the glacier and it lived up to its reputation. I joined a tour which took us the 50 miles to the Parque Nacional Los Glaciares. We left at 8:30 am and spent almost 4 hours viewing the glacier including a boat trip which took us right up next to the glacier. Everyone waited with anticipation hoping that there would be huge hunks of the glacier falling into the water but not this trip. Lots of rumbles however. The glacier is enormous. The glacier is as big as the entire city of Buenos Aires. The glacier is over 200 feet tall, 18 miles long and 3 miles wide.

December 17, 2010.  (CHILE,  Puerto Natales)

Just arrived in Puerto Natales, Chile which is the staging point for hiking the "W Circuit" in Torres del Paine whiich is supposed to be the most beautiful hiking in Patagonia. I am staying at Hostel Esmeralda which is a family run hostel which is worn but well kept and the least expensive in the area. I leave tomorrow for 6 nights and 7 days in Torres del Paine. The hostels are so expensive in the national park, $50 for a bed in an 8 bed dorm without sheets and blanket. (That is an extra $12 a night) I have opted to rent a sleeping bag for my dorm bed at $3 a day. I am also carrying in my food, spaghetti, bread and wine. All the essentials. Will not have internet so will post again when I return on December 24th. I asked about getting food on my return for Christmas but was advised that I will be eating with Crisobal and his family for Christmas. You meet great people when traveling who always make you feel at home. Having fun but missing the family. Love to all.

December 18, 2010.   (CHILE, Torres del Paine)

I am getting very excited about hiking for 7 days through Torres del Paine. This is the major reason I came to South America. Will be staying in very expensive Refugios (shelters but essentially a hostel), at least I think. It costs around $50 a night for a bed in an 8 bed dorm without sheets or blankets. (that is extra $12 a night) So I will be renting a sleeping bag for my bed at $3 a night. Food is also about $20 a meal at the refugios so I will carry in as much food as possible. (spaghetti, bread, ham and wine) All the necessities. lol   I have heard that the Circuit which involves camping and more days has better views but my camping skills are poor and therefore will still hope for some incredible scenery. Will not have Internet during the trekking but will be back at Esmeralda Hostel on Christmas Eve. 

Arrived at hostel and found out there is no kitchen access so all of the spaghetti sauce and noodles in my backpack are useless. Have enough sandwich meat and bread for 2 days and then will start having to buy lunch ($14) and dinner ($17). A diet coke is $3 and Snickers is $4. Luckily I brought cookies and cake which I will eat for breakfast each day. Probably would have been cheaper camping but I am not the greatest outdoorsman. lol

December 18, 2010.   (Torres del Paine)

Incredible experience hiking the W Circuit in  Parque Nacional Torres del Paine in Chile. Stayed in Refugio's (hostel like but closer to hotel with bunk beds). The cost was about $45 a night without sheets and blanket which was extra $12 so I rented a sleeping bag for my bunk at $3 a day. Also there was no kitchen access so breakfast was $12, lunch was $14 and dinner was $17. Quite a little racket they have since they have a monopoly unless you are camping. But sometimes you have to pay to see those sights which are hard to get to and in great demand. Would have camped and cooked myself if I had known what I know now but regardless, it was one of those great hiking experiences.

December 19-24, 2010.   (Trekking Torres del Paine)

Incredible 6 nights and 7 days in Parque Nacional Torres del Paine in Chile. Every day hiking had every type of weather imaginable. It was really windy every day but one. I mean anywhere from 30-60 mph constantly. Some gusts stronger than others but always constant. It gets dark around 10:30 pm and light around 4:30 am so there is plenty of daylight to hike. There was rain about half of the time but more of a light drizzle than a downpour. Good rain gear is essential. There was not a lot of hiking high in the mountains. Most of the hiking was up and down along the lakes with the occasional hike up to Los Torres, the French Valley and to see Glacier Grey. While many times the hikes up were painful they were not difficult by any means. If I had camped instead (which I probably should have), the hikes would have been more challenging and the views even more spectacular I have been told. The hiking and scenery was beautiful and fun regardless.

December 24-26th, 2010

Back in Puerto Natales in time for  Christmas and the much änticipated Christmas Eve Dinner. The backpacker cost was only $10 and that included Lamb (my 1st experience EVER) , various vegetables and unlimited wine. What I am not accustomed to us eating dinner late in the evening which is a Spanish tradition. It was almost 11 pm when dinner was served, I think. Remember there was unlimited wine and only a few snacks to hold us over until dinner.  It was an amazing meal and seems the hostel owner was also a Chef.

December 26, 2010.     (ARGENTINA,  Ushuai)

I caught the 7:30 am bus to Ushuai . About 6 hours of this journey was on gravel/dirt highways. We also had one ferry crossing.  I arrived at 7:30 pm and located the FREE Style Hostel. Checked the nearby travel agency looking for inexpensive, last minute Antarctica trip. I was told to check back tomorrow. 

December 27, 2010.   

I was waiting for an opportunity to do the January 1st cruise to Antarctica for $3149 but it seems someone else booked the last spot. I decided to go the the December 28th departure for  $3990. Not happy about it but much less than the typical cost of $10,000 and it is a "Once in a lifetime experience ".  I also booked a $197 flight from Ushuai to Buenos Aires on my return. The flight is 4 hours and the bus to Buenos Aires was 50 hours AND $250. NO BRAINER. Antarctica departure tomorrow. 

ANTARCTICA 

December 28, 2010.   (Antarctica Bound !!!!!!!!!!!)

Departure is at 5 pm today. Checked out of the hostel after lunch and will walk the street of Ushuaia until 4 pm and then go through security at the dock. Ended up at the port around 3:30 and saw a huge line of passengers waiting to clear security. Many did not seem to have any luggage and I was confused but later realized some were on day trips. There were also many going to Antarctica on the 500 passenger ship which was enormous. They are not allowed to land anywhere in Antarctica. The passenger ship must not have more than 100 passengers to make landing in Antarctica. I was actually the first person on board at 4 pm and then Casper, from the Netherlands, came on the ship. We quickly introduced ourselves and were amazed that we ended up as cabin mates. Probably because we both booked at the last moment. After everyone got on the ship we had an emergency drill on the top deck before we started our journey at 6 pm. This 11 day cruise is actually closer to 9.5 days. We leave on the 28th at 6 pm and return at 8 am on the 7th.  2 water trips of a lifetime in the same trip. (Grand Canyon and Antarctica)

December 29, 2010.   (Drake Passage)

The Drake Passage is a lively body of water, and a rite of passage for Antarctic tourists. Named after Sir Francis Drake, it extends 900 kilometers (600 miles) from Cape Horn to the northernmost tip of Antarctica and is famous for being one of the roughest seas in the world.

December  30, 2010.   (Atlantic Convergence)

Lectures today on whales, dolphins and seals. Still in Drake Passage but in Atlantic Convergence, where the warmer and cooler waters meet. Compulsory emergency drill with life jackets at 5 pm. If weather is okay we will land at 7 am. Everyone getting excited. Really nice people on the boat. Most of the people flew in just for this trip and head back afterwards. I am the only person from the United States. There are Germans, Dutch, Canadians, English, French, Italians and not sure of some of the others. Not sleeping well with the ship rolling. 

December 31, 2010.    (Last day of 2010 and 1st landing in Antarctica)

Breakfast at 6 am and climb in Zodiacs, a small motorized raft,  for landing in Antarctica at 7 am. After breakfast most passengers went to the top deck to see the incredible icebergs. Excitement is in the air. I was lucky enough to be in the 1st Zodiac to launch and land in Antarctica. Amazing, words seem to escape me. Wish the family could be here with me. Not much sun and really don't know how that works here. lol   Penguins, penguins and penguins. So incredible how they don't seem to worry much about us. We are to stay about 15 feet away but if they approach you it is okay. Penguins always have the right of way. The landing was at Brown Bluff.

The 2nd landing was at Hope Bay. We visited the Argentine base and were welcomed by the Argentine children, yes children, that live there with their families. We visited the school and I was able to mail a postcard to Kade and Madison from Antarctica.

3rd stop was Paulette Island and saw amazing icebergs as we circled the island in the Zodiacs. 

January 1, 2011.   (New Year's Day on Astrolabe Island)

Wild New Year's party which lasted way too long and made the morning Zodiac cruise with a lot fewer passengers than normal. Most said it was uneventful. However the 2nd landing to Astrolabe Island was incredible. Beautiful icebergs, every type of penguin including the Marconi penguins which Jordy said was a rare treat since they are normally breeding in the Falklands. We also saw a leopard seal and fur seal, another rarity. Then we spotted a Hamburg whale feeding and followed and watch it for about an hour in the Zodiacs. No lamb for 56 years and had it for dinner, the 2nd time in a week including Christmas Eve.

January 2, 2011.   (Cueville Island and Neko Harbour)

We went to Cuerville Island and saw some really beautiful icebergs. Afternoon land was at Neko Harbour.

January 3, 2011.   (English base)

Decided not to go to the English base since I had already visited the much bigger Argentine base and they also were going to see MORE penguins. They are fun to watch but it is getting a little old. The afternoon landing were canceled due to high winds. We head to Shetland Island which marks the beginning of the end. Getting restless since I have seen and experienced some of the best of Antarctica. Starting to feel a little trapped as I am used to being able to move from place to place at will.   

January 4, 2011.  (Deception Bay)

We were awoken at 4:45 by Jordy to let us know that we were arriving at the entrance to Deception Bay in the Shetland Islands. We all went on top to get a look but the weather was dreary and we all wished we had stayed in bed. We took the Zodiacs (small pontoon boat with motor) and landed around 6 am. We were told to bring our swim suits. WHAT!!!! Our first visit was to the Devil Bellows to get a look at the other side of the island and then to the abandoned whaling station. Some people did go for a swim in the cold water and then warmed up in the warm volcanic sand. I WAS NOT one of them. Leaving Antarctica this afternoon.

January 5, 2011.   (Drake Passage)

Not much to do since we have left the Shetland Islands and are headed back to Ushuaia. The waves are starting to get much worse. I have been wearing the same clothes for 3 days since my laundry is still not ready but hopefully today. The trip to Antarctica was much more exciting than the trip back. Ready to be back on solid ground.

January 6, 2011.   (Drake Passage)

The worst weather of the trip. The captain said the waves in the Drake Passage were the worst he has seen in the boat's 5 year history. Almost everyone stayed in their rooms except for meals. Laying in bed seemed to help the most but luckily I did not get seasick. At 6:30 pm the crew presented a slide show of pictures of the passengers and places we visited. Then we all made copies to keep. Wine was flowing.

January 7, 2011.   (LAST DAY)

We docked in Ushuaia around 4 am, had breakfast at 7am and disembarked around 8:00 am. Tired from 2 days of the worst waves the Antarctic Dream has seen in the last 5 years according to the captain. Luckily I did not get seasick but almost everyone stayed in bed most of the time because it was almost impossible to stand or walk. Checked in the hostel and went to sleep after lunch. An incredible trip. Loved the Antarctic part, hated the Cruise part. Also, there were only a few backpackers on this luxury cruise with gourmet food and free wine with lunch and dinner. I have never seen so many dishes that I could not recognize. While the $3990 was $490 over the top amount I had planned on paying, the average cost for most was approximately  $10,000 with one paying $16,000 for a room alone. A few people at the hostel are leaving today for the same cruise at the same price so at least I did not pay too much considering New Years eve and day were on the Antarctic peninsula. Also our boat which has a maximum of 78 passengers only had 63 passengers due to the bad weather in Europe, forcing some planes to South America to cancel their flights. Having less than 100 passengers also allows you to land many places that other boats can not land. We also usually had 3 landings per day when weather permitted.  Back to simple things.

SOUTH AMERICA (Part 2)

January 7, 2011.   (ARGENTINA, Ushuaia)

Back at Freestyle Backpackers Hostel after an incredible journey to Antarctica. Just had the best meal, french bread, ham and chips. After 11 days of gourmet food (lamb, grilled tuna, salmon, and numerous things I still don't know), I am so glad to be back to simple life and simple food. I leave tomorrow for Buenos Aires at 6:40 pm and will arrive at 10 pm. (not ideal)  The flight was actually $50 cheaper than the 50 hr bus ride. Also now know that cruises are not for me. Don't like giving up my freedom to go where I want when I want and not be restricted by schedules. Will start posting Antarctic pictures on my new Antarctic Blog tomorrow. You can find my blog at the bottom of my profile or at http://billpassmanantarctica.blogspot.com

Saturday, January 8, 2011.  (Flight to Buenos Aires)

Slept until 10 am, breakfast and washing clothes. The flight to Buenos Aires was delayed and did not arrive until 11:30 pm. I arrived at the hostel at 12:45 am and checked in. Then I went to the hostel bar a little after 1 am for a beer. I asked the bartender why it was almost empty as this is a very popular hostel. He laughed and said no one goes out until about 2 am and then parties until daylight.  Okay, this is not something I could adjust to in my 50's. Lol.  To each their own. 

January 9, 2011.  (ARGENTINA,  Buenos Aires)

Stayed up till about 3 am chatting with hostel staff and backpackers in the LOUD bar. Still great fun. I , of course, had a top bunk again in the six bed dorm and the rest of the group came in around 5-6 am. Of course, when I got up at 9:30 for the free breakfast, the rest of the group did not move until around 3 pm. About (8) McDonalds and Burger Kings within 3 blocks of the hostel so I am back in my element. The memory of gourmet food on the Antarctic Dream will soon be nothing but a memory.   yeah

Had planned on City Bus Tour at 2 pm to get the sight seeing out of the way but was later informed the double decker bus was full so will rebook later this week. Instead I walked about 25 city blocks to and back from the Sunday Market which is just Artisans lining the streets with their wares and a few musicians playing. Nice way to spend a breezy, 82 degree day. Warm temperatures of rest of my trip. Even gave my fleece jacket away in Ushuaia because too expensive to ship and takes too much valuable space in my backpack.

Tomorrow I go to Brazilian Consulate to apply for my Btazilian Visa ($150) . OUCH  It usually takes 3-4 days and you have to have an incredible amount of information and flights showing you plan on leaving the country. Spending about 6 days in Buenos Aires and then Paraguay, Uruguay, Igassu Falls and then to Brazil.

Will try and upload more Antarctica pictures today.

January 10, 2011.   (URUGUAY,  Colonia)

Spent the day in Colonia, Uruguay which is only an hour and half by ferry from Buenos Aires. Supposed to be the highlight of Uruguay. Spent 12.5 hours there which was 9 hours too much. Nice and kind of reminded me of downtown Natchez. Very artsy.

January 12th and 13th, 2011.  ( Iguazu Falls , Argentina side)

After 17 hrs on bus from Buenos Aires, I finally made it to Puerto Iguazu around 8 am. Luckily the hostel was across the street from the bus station. After a quick shower I went to the Brazilian Consulate which was only a block away. I had to complete an application by 10 am if I wanted a visa the next day. I finished with 3 minutes to spare.  With a check in time of 2 pm I decided to go to Iguazu Falls which is 12 miles away. I got there at 11 am and stayed until 6 pm.  GREAT DAY. FALLS ARE IMPRESSIVE. 

January 14, 2011

Today was a chill day. Yes it's true, you do not have to do something everyday that is tourist related. At this point in my life I no longer consider myself a traditional tourist, just someone who lives his life by seeing new things and places. A NOMAD. Somedays you just need to chill. I laid out by the pool, drank beer and participated in the the hostel BBQ for dinner and of course, taljed travel with other backpackers. 

January 15, 2011.   (2 more nights in Puerto Iguazu)

Just realized my hostel booking for Foz Iguazu, Brazil is not until the 17th so will stay an extra day in Argentina. 1 night there and then a 16 hr bus ride to Sao Paulo, Brazil and hopefully a connecting 4 hr bus to Paraty for some beach time. My mind is overloaded with the amount of pictures to upload from Antarctica and Iguazu Falls. Will do my best tomorrow when I will have more time.

January 17, 2011.  (Foz de Iguazu, Brazil) 

Only a 30 minute bus ride to Foz de Iguazu, Brazil from Puerto Iguazu,  Argentina.  8 checked my bags at the hostel and then headed for the Brazilian side of Iguazu Falls. Many claim the Argentine side is  better because you are so close to the falls that you get soaking wet. For that reason also many pictures have too much moisture from the falls to get a really great picture. The Brazilian side was INCREDIBLE and offered many great pictures of the falls with many more falls in the picture. Momentarily considered the $100 ten minute helicopter flight over the falls but will try and get a YouTube video instead. Can't wait to post pictures. Day trip tomorrow to 2nd largest dam in the world after the 3 Gorges Dam in China then 4 pm bus for 22 hours to Paraty for some great beach time.

January 18, 2011.  (Ciudad del Estes, Paraguay)

Will go short distance across the river to visit Paraguay on short day trip before my 22 hr bus ride to Paraty, Brazil at 4 pm. It is known for its shops and malls. Our guide referred to it as the "Walmart of South America". Everything is cheaper in Paraguay.  We went to a spot where all 3 countries (Paraguay,  Brazil  and Argentina) meet at one point.

January 20, 2011

Made it to Paraty, Brazil after 29 hrs on a bus and 3 hr connection in the terminal. Thought I had direct bus from Foz to Sao Paulo but no, got dropped off in Santos and had to figure out that I should get a connecting bus on my own because all anyone speaks is Portuguese. But got connecting bus to Sao Paulo which took about 1 hr and then found out SOMEHOW (because everyone only speaks Portuguese) that I was at the wrong bus station. The other was clear across town so SOMEHOW I figured out how to use the Metro (subway) and made it to the other station and bought my ticket to Paraty. But it didn't leave for 3 hrs and I was starving. Any terminal (bus, plane etc.) is not where you want to buy food.  I caught the 4 pm bus just in time for rush hour in the city of 13 million. When I finally made it to Parity I used the directions from Hostelworld which did not help at all. I tried asking for help but everyone just speaks Portuguese. (Theme is developing)  Finally another hostel showed me where it was since it was Next Door. Unfortunately they still have their old sign from a previous owner and not the name I booked under.

Better today after 12 hrs of sleep. It is not always fun backpacking but so worth every minute of it. Spent over an hour last night trading stories of past adventures. Some people make me feel like a rookie when it come to  backpacking where others are listening to every story with amazement. 2 more days here and then to Rio de Janeiro and Ipanema Beach and 1 of the 7 Wonders of the World (Christ the Redeemer).

Went to the beach with my new friend, Sabrina, who moved to Brazil 1.5 months ago from Italy. She is from Romania and learned Portuguese in only 1 month which I think is amazing. She has the ability to immediately make you feel like one of her best friends. Great day listening to her thoughts on life. Looks like she found her place in this world (Paraty). Still looking for mine. May do boat trip to one of the 365 islands (1 for each day of the year).

January 21, 2011.  (Paraty Island Cruise)

Went at 11 am on a 5 hr cruise to several islands for swimming and snorkeling. There are 365 islands around the city of Paraty. It was a small boat with only about 10 passengers but of course there were many other boats also doing the same thing. Fun day and one of the reasons I went to Paraty. Leave tomorrow at 10:20 am for the 4 hr bus ride to Rio de Janeiro for a 6 days visit. Staying on Ipanema Beach and hopefully will get a chance to hang glide over Rio de Janeiro and see Christ the Redeemer, one of the 7 Wonders of the World.

January 22, 2011

4 hr bus ride to Rio and arrived around 2:30 pm. Very fortunate that a girl from the hostel in Paraty, Tess, was also going to Rio, so we rode the bus together and shared a cab to the beaches of Copacabana and Ipanema. Just found out the hang gliding trip is $200 for 15 minutes. Decisions, decisions, ha ha, everyone knows I am gonna do it. Time to head the 1 block to Ipanema Beach. Excitement is almost unbearable. 5 nights in Rio and then heading north, not sure where. Missing the grandkids and rest of family a lot.

January 23, 2011.  (HANG GLIDING OVER RIO)

Regardless of the cost, I had made up my mind that I would hang glide over Rio when I went to South America. Plus, I had heard so many incredible stories. It was spectacular and breathtaking. 10 minutes of soaring over the city and landing on the Sao Conrado Beach. I also was able to watch many paragliders and hang gliders take off before it was my turn. Will post a few pictures but have a mini DVD of entire flight that I must find out how to transfer to my computer which has no place for Cd's or DVD. Hopefully I will visit Christ the Redeemer or Sugar Loaf Mountain tomorrow. So expensive here, may leave one day early.

January 24, 2011.  (Ipanema Beach)

BEACH DAY. Not as crowded as on the weekend. Beautiful, beaches and the women. 

January 25, 2010.   (Sugarloaf Mountain)

After the free breakfast at the hostel, I caught the 511 bus to Sugar Loaf and caught the tram up to one of the most scenic spots in Rio. About 1300 feet high.  Pricey at about $28 but have learned to accept that Rio is just crazy expensive even if backpacking. Stayed a few hours just taking in the scenery and caught the 512 back to the hostel.

January 27, 2011.   (Christ the Redeemer) 

Went to Corcordoba Mountain today to see, Christ the Redeemer, 1 of the New 7 Wonders of the World , which is on the very top of the mountain and overlooks Rio. Incredible views but unfortunately the sun was behind the statute and my pictures of the statue are not great. The statue is about 240 feet tall.

January 29, 2011.   (Recife and Olinda)

Arrived on an earlier flight to Recife around 11 pm and of course, the buses quit running. Luckily a taxi was only $10 even though that still hurts to pay. The lack of English and high prices, especially along the coast of Brazil are beginning to take its toll on me. With rooms at $30 a night in the dorm and transportation being so much more than anticipated, my budget is being crushed. However, leave for Manaus in the middle of the Amazon on Feb. 9th and then will bus up into Venezuela. Will discuss that trip a little more when I get a better grasp on it and way the dangers. Almost like traveling in China except most of the hostels there spoke better English.

January 31, 2011.  (Natal, Brazil)

So glad to be out of Recife. Hard to see sights in Olinda when no one at the hostel speaks more than 2 words of English. Even in China, many people learned at least a little English in preparation of the Olympics. Most Brazilians speak neither English or Spanish. With the World Cup in 2014 and Olympics in 2016 you would think that everyone would be learning to speak English. Enough ranting. Chilling out in Natal for 10 days until I bus for 8 hrs to Fortaleeza to catch my flight to Manaus. From there I bus into Venezuela. Got to talk to Scott, Kade and Madison on Skype last night and it was long overdue. Hopefully I will get recharged over next 10 days. No plans except for beach, swimming pool and 1 days of dune buggies on the high sand dune around Natal. It is supposed to be great fun with professional drivers taking you flying over the sand dunes for an entire day. Another unplanned expenditure. Luckily the free breakfast not only includes fruit but bread, ham and cheese. You know what I am thinking , right. Always make 1 or 2 ham sandwiches and keep for lunch.

February 3, 2011.   (New hostel (home) in Natal)

Moved to a new hostel, actually a home masquerading as a hostel 2 days ago. Got a private room, they have the better beach on Ponto Negra and a pool. Staying here until my flight to Manaus. Doing nothing but relaxing and trying not to spend any money. Still thinking about Venezuela. Either way I will be going on the slow boat for 6.5 days up the Amazon in a hammock. I did that once before and while an experience, not that much fun either. But it gets me to Leticia where Colombia, Brazil and Peru meet and I can get a cheap plane to Cartagenca. Then Colombia will be my home for the rest of my trip. ( I think)   Cuba ???????????????????????????

The beaches here are beautiful and found my new favorite food, Acai Ice Cream. Acai's taste is often described as a cross between blackberries and unsweetened chocolate. There are full of antioxidants.  

February 8, 2011.    (Bus to Fortaleeza and plane to Manaus then bus to Santa Elena)

After 11 days of fun and sun and getting recharged in Natal, I am ready to resume my backpacking through South America for the last few legs of my journey. Tonight at 8:15 pm I take a bus for 8.5 hrs to Fortaleeza and then a taxi (since its 4 am) to the airport. Then I take a 9am flight to Manaus and then straight to the bus station, where I will wait for 7 hrs until the 8 pm bus to Santa Elena, Venezuela which will take 15 hrs. Busy 40 hrs of backpacking.

February 10, 2011.   (SNAKES & 1ST DAY OF CLIMB  ???)

The first day of the six day climb started out fine but all of a sudden I found myself faced with a rattlesnake ready to strike right next to my foot. I kicked at the snake repeatedly trying to deflect its strike and keep its fangs from sinking into my leg.  I was still kicking when ....................

I woke up on the bus to Santa Elena (starting point for the trek) and was kicking the foot rest of the seat repeatedly. I quickly looked at the passenger next to me and luckily he was still sleeping. I was still 6 hrs away from Santa Elena. I wondered if this was a nightmare or a premonition. Upon arriving at Santa Elena I signed up for the 6 day climb and at 6 pm we had the briefing about the climb from the local expert who has written 3 books on Roraima (from Lost World fame).

He said the climb would be difficult but the real danger was snakes. Coral snakes, RATTLESNAKES, and some other snake which could kill you within 20 minutes of being bitten. The fact that our bathroom consists of a roll of toilet paper and any bush you can find did not help matters. A lot grass along the trail along the way had been burned to rid some of the snakes. I stayed as close to the guides as possible.  

Luckily it was a nightmare and not a premonition. 

February 11-16th, 2011.   (Climbing Roraima in Venezuela)

Over 50 miles hiking, climbing (using hands a lot) up over 9000 feet in 5 hrs, walking up and under 2 waterfalls, wading waist deep through two rivers, sleeping in tents on rock, and bathrooms which consisted of a roll of toilet paper and wherever you could find space. Hopefully away from the many snakes that supposedly are on this trek even though we luckily did not see any. Our guide said there are partial to Norwegians. lol

Roraima is the largest of the "tepuis" , flat topped mountains, which is 6 miles long on one side. It is made up completely of sandstone but there is lots of vegetation growing out of rocks due to the moisture and nutrients that the winds blow to the top of the mountain. There are crystal valleys and crytal rivers which is a sight to behold and the mountain is rumored to have specific powers and intersects the lines from Machu Picchu and Stonehenge. Strange sounds including voices and lights have been heard and seen from the tepuy nearest to Roaraima which is no longer allowed to climb due to strange behavior in the people climbing and lost climbers who were never found. (Sounds like a great movie of the week) There are over 40 different types of orchids and the weather has created incredible sandstone figures which are all named, such as the flying turtle pictured below.The surface has been compared to the moon. Will have to take their word on that, haven't been there, YET.  lol

We also walked for 8 hrs one day while on top to the Triple Point, where the borders of Brazil, Colombia and Guyana meet. Technically I walked into Guyana for 1 minute but will not count that on my tattoo. 
  
The price to pay to see something that most will never see. (Unfortunately, but hopefully more will make the effort) Great times. Hiked with Swiss couple and Gilbert (Jill Bear) from France.

February 19-25th, 2011

I found a boat leaving sooner than expected. Paid the $180 US for the 6.5 day journey up the Amazon which does not include your hammock (bought for $24) but does include all meals. My experience 4 years ago going downriver from Iquitos on the Amazon was less than a favorable experience. This trip, however, was much better than expected. The boat was larger and newer and the meals were really good for this type of cruise. HOWEVER, every lunch and dinner were exactly the same except for the type of meat served. The meal consisted of rice, beans, spaghetti noodles, and meat or chicken. Still loved it until about the 4th day then I was craving almost anything else. There were approximately 200 passengers on board and every hammock was touching someone elses. People started lining up for each meal approximately 1 hour before they began serving because the dining room only served about 30 people at a time. We got a much closer view of the banks of the Amazon than those who go down river because the boat stays close to the bank to keep away from the current. Most of the time we were within 100 to 150 feet from the banks. Not much to do during the day but watch the scenery, eat and sleep in your hammock. At night the top deck turned into a Salsa dance club with many Skol beers being consumed. I made some really great friends on the trip, Bobby (Canada), Hanas (Italy), Elise (Colombia) and Sonny (Australia). The sunsets were spectacular with the sun setting sometimes on the Amazon River and others with thunderstorms putting on a lightning spectacular. The first 4 days went by fast as the boat never docked at any other ports but starting on the 5 th day we stopped several times a day which was so boring. You can only watch people unload things for so long. The 6th day we stopped in port for 11 hours which was an eternity. Back to the hammock for more sleep was usually the remedy for boredom. So happy to land in Tabatinga, Brazil and then walk the 2 km to Leticia, Colombia. Finally on solid ground again. So happy I did this trip as I made great friends and added a more positive perspective to river travel on the Amazon than my previous trip.  Thought that I saw a pink river dolphin at the mouth of a river that empties into the Amazon but it was a Manatee, how cool. Picture included.

February 25, 2011

The 4 Amigos (myself, Bobby, Hanas, and Sonny) and the chica (Elize) went in search of accommodations upon arriving in Leticia. The guys all found a dorm in a very nice hotel for only $10 a person in 4 bed dorm while Elise stayed with a friend of hers. Elise and Hanas are now an item and we are in danger of becoming the 3 Amigos (lol). We all ate food other than what we had been eating for 7 days and enjoyed a few beers. I ordered a hamburger which came with a meat pattie, lettuce, tomato, cheese and a piece of ham on it. HAMburger, I guess. Should not be surprised because it is the 3rd time this trip it has happened. Just glad it did not have a fried egg on top like there has been on a few occasions.  Everyone else but me decided to go out for a night on the town. For once I used my better judgment and turned in after they decided to leave the hotel around 11 pm and search for more entertainment. They came in late making quite a ruckus. Payback was served by me at 7 am the next morning. Good times. I fly out of Leticia on the 28th to Cartagena for 4 days and then bus to Santa Marta for some Caribbean beach time.

March 1, 2011.   (COLOMBIA,  Cartagena)

Arrived in Cartagena last night after a 3.5 hr flight from Leticia. The taxi ride to the hostel was short (10 minute) but expensive ($7.50). The Hostel El Viajero Cartagena is within the historic and walled portion of the old city. Today I hiked along the wall of the old city and took pictures of all of the old structures which have been maintained well. 3 more nights here and then to Santa Marta for 2 nights.

March 4-6th, 2011.   (COLOMBIA,  Santa Marta)

Travel day. Take 4.5 hr to shuttle to Santa Marta. Something didn't feel right when I arrived at the hostel. Maybe the fact there was a MALL across the street from the hostel made it feel like Santa Marta was too commercial  for my taste. I started making alternate plans soon after checking in. Tanganga, a nearby Caribbean village, would be my destination soon and only a 45 minute bus ride.

March 6 - 23rd, 2011

No plans here but relaxing by the hostel pool, watching sunsets, drinking beer and some beach time. I love the sunsets at the village port. The sun always seems to set perfectly while musicians play and people sip chilled rum. When the sun sets, the musicians stop ...... in acknowledgement.  A great time is had by all.

After great couple of weeks at Taganga enjoying the beach and sunsets, I was summoned home by my granddaughter, Madison and flew home on the 23rd of March. I still had 4 weeks before my original return flight but was able to change the date for $150. Great time in South America and Antarctica. Time to start planning for the next adventure, but must spend quality time with the family first. 

TRIP OF A LIFETIME, AGAIN.   I am very fortunate.